posted
Just got this engine for my Revo - on my 4th break-in tank. What a great looking engine - I know I will love as soon as I break it in. I am having (2) problems:
1. Even if I loosen the carb screw (hex head) - it is almost impossible to rotate the carb. I had to use a pair of pliers to do so. Does that screw need to come all the way out or just loosening it is enough. I tried this before I even started the engine for the first time but have not tried again.
2. During break in with the body off and set to factory settings I was getting temps in the high 200's (280 or so and once even 310). I know that is not normal. There was plenty of blue smoke the entire time. I may have an air leak (based on feedback on other forums) but what would be the best place to check for one and how?
posted
1) Loosening is enough, however because it is a pinch-bold you need to turn the carburetor to get it loose.
2) Or your temp gauge is not reading correctly or you are running the engine too lean on the HSN, you engine might be too rich on the LSN and this can explain the smoke, especially when you open throttle.
1. Should you have to turn the carb with pliers or just by hand enough? It's really in there - it would not budge without pliers.
2. I never thought of that. I have it set at factory which should be plenty rich. Any way to tell for sure if my LSN is too rich and my HSN is too lean? Yes the smoke comes out when I accelerate and then drops off...
The temp got up to 300 once (according to my temp gun) - do you think that will hurt the engine? I richened it up right away and the temp went down.
Thanks again - look foward to letting this baby rip!!!
posted
1) Hand should be enough, however sometime a little tick with the plastic back of a screwdriver will do the trick. Try not to use pliers, this will only damage the carb.
2) Running the engine at 300 is not good irreversable damage will occure and shorten the life of the engine, so try to avoid this if you want your engine to last...
posted
Here is the way we remove these carbs on the TM323 series engines (the two halves of the pinch bolt tend to stick inside the crankcase even when the hex screw is removed):
1). Loosen the hex screw so that it almost completely out of the back half of the pinch bolt (leave a few threads engaged)...this is the half toward the back of the engine that has threads in it. 2). Leaving the allen wrench inside the hex screw, carefully tap lightly on the end of the allen wrench with a small pliers or similar...this will free the back half of the pinch bolt from the crankcase. 3). Unscrew the hex screw the rest of the way out of the rear half of the pinch bolt, and then remove the rear half with your fingers or a small pliers. 4). Carefully insert a small dowel pin (we use wood, plastic ok) from the rear of the carb (through the hole just created by removing the back half of the pinch bolt), and then tap this carefully to free the front half of the pinch bolt from the carb and crankcase. 5). Carefully rotate the carb slightly (no more than 10-20 degrees of rotation) to free up while pulling out as you are doing this...it should clear without problem.
posted
Thanks for the tips - I failed to remove the entire screw and pinch bolt. I will give that a shot and let you know what happens.
I have another question if you don't mind - I would like to check for air leaks and am familiar with the usual suspected areas but could there be an air leak (and does it matter) around the pull start? If there is what is the best way to seal that area - RTV?
While I am at it - I know RB glow plugs are the best for that engine but if I can't find any locally what would be next best plug to use on the engine?
posted
Thank you, RB Products USA, I tried to get the answer to that question awhile back on here. Masterjack: I had the exact same issues you are having and thought I'd never get this thing tuned but now that its right, I think it may be the best nitro engine I've owned. It has a powerband unlike anything I've used. Just very picky on break-in. If it helps, I changed to a much longer pressure line from the tank to the carburetor (about 7 inches)and it really helped. Before it seemed to have an air leak but there was not one. The crankcase pulses seem much stronger on this engine compared to all of my others and the longer tubing keeps the pressure more consistent. This is my first RB so I'm still learning.
Posts: 5 | From: USA | Registered: Feb 2006
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posted
Thanks for your reply Speed.... it's nice to hear from someone wih the same problem. Did you change out the tubing while you were doing the break-in and that's what helped the temps come down or did you get past break-in and then do the tubing change?
I was just wondering if the longer tubing brought down your temps. I have not checked for an air leak (have not had time). I'm not sure what else to try and certainly don't want to fry the engine before I break it in....
posted
Yes I went to the longer tubing about halfway through. I still had to do a little more tuning but this seemed to resolve 80% of the tuning issues and erratic idle. I dont think that the longer tubing itself did anything for the temps and tuning other than making the engine more consistent therefore easier to hold a tune. I was literally changing screw positions every 1 or 2 minutes. It wasnt reacting to adjustments. One thing I noticed is that this engine really likes alot of fuel. My broke-in settings are very close to my break-in settings. I am in KS and its very dry right now so that may change a little this spring with higher humidity. I must say again that when you get this thing right, you will be impressed. When I was trying to figure mine out I thought very seriously about finding another engine. Now I want a few more for my other cars. Oh by the way, mine has been running 220-230 degrees most of the time. Hope this helps.
Posts: 5 | From: USA | Registered: Feb 2006
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posted
Thanks again for your reply. You said you changed the pressure line to 7". I beleive the stock line length is 12" - did you add 7" or did you change the line from the tank to the exhaust? Sorry I wanted to be clear. If you could post a photo somewhere that would be great - just place the link here. I am looking forward to getting this guy up and running. Thanks for your help.
posted
Yes its the line from the tank to the exhaust. I have approximately 10" from the tank to the carb. I dont know how to post pics but I can email it to you if you PM your address.
Posts: 5 | From: USA | Registered: Feb 2006
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