posted
I was doing basic maintenance on my 323 and I noticed that the back side of the front bearing was not sealed.The front side is so im wondering if this normal?
also, is there an easy way to remove the main bearing when the time comes without damaging anything?
My carb was not opening fully and leaking fuel so after taking the engine out i noticed the shaft where the eazy-start\pul-sart goes was loose so i took it back to the shop i got it from and they sent it to the uk disstributers and they changed my carb and put a new back-plate and bearing in (Thanks RB & CML for fixing it).
Anyway the guy in the shop said theres a fult in the design and that it may brake\get loose agian if but he didn't know if they had put a re-designed bearing in or not.
Anyway within a few tanks i noticed fuel or oil leaking from the back-plate\pull-start, but thought it was nothing.
Then the other day i saw the guy at the model shop and his RB has gone in for repare after only a few tanks for the same bearing\shaft problem and its the 2nd time for him.
So the other day and today i noticed my RB was cutting out for no reason temps getting a little high after allready richening and a little hard to restart sometimes, and also when i prime it the fuel goes through the pipes sloow compared to about 12 tanks ago when bearing and back-plate were new.
So tonight i took out the engine and the shaft is loose agian after only about 12 tanks. It still runs ok for now but i susspect after a few more tanks it will run very badly.
Then is there an issue with the bearing design ??? Has anyone eles had this problem ???
ThX for any useful info.
[ 10. August 2005, 23:33: Message edited by: EyeRevo ]
Posts: 5 | Registered: Aug 2005
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posted
The same thing was happening to mine. What I did was press the bushing out and machine the backplate and installed two 6x12 bearings. The inboard is shielded and the outbourd is sealed. This mod has worked great!!! Mike
Posts: 17 | From: Orland , CA | Registered: Apr 2005
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So Gaven shame u had to get rid of the pullstart to fix a problem. but i suppose ur glad u did it... and now it done it must be a lot better with no pull-star an no OWB.
mgarzoli did u also get rid of the pull\ez-start ??? Or did the mod u did allow u to keep ur pull\ez-star ?
If so can u give more ditals on how u did it. If i was gonna do this would i need to be an engineer and have acces to a machine-shop ? Cus i'm not and dont
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Doing this mod still alows you to use any starting method you wish. I actually did this mod by hand with an adjustable reamer and a drill bit. Fairly simple to do. If you want I will e-mail you the procedure.
Posts: 17 | From: Orland , CA | Registered: Apr 2005
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Yes mgarzoli please mail me with the details. ThX a lot ------ So any comment from RB on this issue ???
Posts: 5 | Registered: Aug 2005
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By making a drop-in engine for the REVO we were oblidged to use the same construction for the backplate as Traxxas was using for their engines to be able to fit their EZ-Start system. The problem with the starting system is that the axle in the bronze bearing is having the same rpm as the engine itself. Running this rpm in a bronze bearing is at the limit of what is possible but when we made our test we did not really encounter any problems at that area and the engines we tested have been working perfect for several gallons.
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Ok Roddy thanks for the info. I'm using a pull-start, but i assuming theres not another back plate for the pull start which would illiminate this problem.
Anyway i took my engine to the shop wed-day and they took it to the uk disstributer on thr-day so if i was very lucky i would have it back on sat-day but most likely next thr-day... but i got it back today WoW, they only had it for one day ..fixed and sent it back . Nuff respect to CML and RB.
If it does go again i suppose ill try what mgarzoli did .
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WoW, they only had it for one day ..fixed and sent it back . Nuff respect to CML and RB.
