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Hello Guys and Gals, I decided to get the RB motor based on the infomration from here. I see the potential and it is waking up... My scenario is that I am racing my Revo and have run 7 tanks. The first 5 break in was good, no problems and smooth idle. Then I took it to the track thinking it was ready and it just over heated. I richened it out and tried to tweak it but temps got to 280. I turned it off and had to go...
Race night, I raced lastnight and for the first heat (6 mins) it died with a minute left, I did not have a chance to run a temp. Prior to that, I richened it and the weather was about 90's F then dropped to 80's in the evening. It was running good for the practice I had with it with a half of tank. Still the power is still weaker than the stock 2.5...
Heat 2 It died while in idle right before the race.. I got it started and then it dies after about 4 minutes...
At this time, I was pretty upset with the motor and then got some suggestions from other racers... I was a running mccoy 359 glowplug solution, run an OS 8 glow plug... Also run 30% fuel rather than 20% fuel. Will this help me? I am going to go out maybe today to tune it. I used a new OS plug... Still thinking about 30%.
Main's B I was running super rich and not shifting into 2nd... The truck was very sluggish and sounded super rich. My goal was to run rich and just finish... My competition was good but I figure if I can stay on during the race and just drive safe, I will be a contender. I finised 2nd. Thus qualifying me for the Amain... My temp was at 240... 80 degrees out... Towards the end of the race, it started to shift and gain a little more power...
A Mains I left the truck the same way thinking I can just finish ... It did but really=really rich. I did ok driving but lost my leads during our straight. I did not stall and at the end of the race, I was at 168 degrees...
What should I do? Sorry for the long thread, I just wanted to share my RB moments... Thanks.
posted
Honestly it sounds to me like your gas tank seal is bad... sounds like it did not seal very well in the b main and getting extra air, which would explain the 240 at a very rich setting, Then in the A Main it sounds like the lid may have sealed correctly which is why your temps were back down to 168. I had this same problem where sometimes the tank would seal and other times it would not. Would also be a reason your truck was dying sometimes due to lack of fuel.
Posts: 373 | From: Colorado, usa | Registered: Apr 2005
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Tonight, I was able to run 3 tanks... I ran it rich on top and a little lean on the bottem and it did show some improvement... I tempted at 250... The weather was about high 70's. The performance aspect is still not so strong or running sluggish. I think now its a tuning issue.
My plan is to run next time rich on the bottom and leaner on the top... What do you guys think?
Question to all, It is not pulling any wheelies yet. I prefer not to, but I figure thats an indicator of the true bottom end power... And thoughts? One thing is for sure, its a lot louder...
My goal is to get it to about 220 running strong and rich.
BTW when I ran it tongiht, it would open up late and shift late... The power band would increase during the higher rpm's... What does this indicate? Thanks again for all the feedback!
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What brand fuel are you using? Are you useing the original pipe and manifold? Is the carburetor opening completely?
We noticed that with the REVO tank there is quite some difference in engine setting when the tank is full and when almost empty. So you have to be carefull with the engine stting.
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Try setting your needles back to the factory setting... when turning in the LSN open the throttle before closing the needle all the way, you could damage it by closing the needle with the throttle closed. I know on my motor I was not pulling wheelies until the motor broke about the 1 gallon mark. Also I know my final carb settings were actually pretty close to the stock needle settings.
Posts: 373 | From: Colorado, usa | Registered: Apr 2005
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posted
By the original pipe, do you mean the RB or the TRX pipe? We have tried our engine first first with the original pipe and the engine did not work at all very well, a little like what you described.
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My new RB plugs came in... I'll try those with factory settings... I am getting frustrated with the motor. I am just upset that the stock motor has demonstrated more power... Thanks again for the input...
We have made all the tests with the stock gearing. I now suggest you ask your LHS from who you have purchased the engine from to have a look at your issue. Continueing in this way can make it long to find your problem.
The TM323 has much more power then the stock TRX engine and this has been certified by quite some users who purchased the TM323 engine.
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I would say that return it to the factory settings on both needles, check that the carb is opening fully every time (my LHS is very helpfull and advised a 3raceing arm against the std one) fit and in-line fuel filter to help leaning off on low fuel tanks and then set up the HSN. I aim for about 210F then set the LSN.This should then go to a temp of about 220F if you are pushing hard. Make sure you have no air leaks at the tank and it should be fine. I have 2 motors thay both set up a treat, no hassel. If you still find you have a high temp but no power I would try cutting more of the body away to increase air flow. On both motors I have diffrent gearing and have problems keeping the front down. Try this dont give up, its one of the best motors I have used in mine and I have tryrd a few! Posts: 4 | From: UK | Registered: Jul 2005
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I havent received my motor yet, BUT do not give up!!! These little motors like your attention. RB, OS, Traxxas it doesnt matter, just be patient.
Posts: 23 | From: Kingston, Ontario | Registered: Aug 2005
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