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» RB Concept Forums » RB Concept .23 engines » Compression when warmed up...

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Author Topic: Compression when warmed up...
BlueReptile
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The engine appears to have good compression when cold, not able to turn the flywheel by 1 finger, and starts right up with roto start. But when warmed up, the flywheel can be turned over with little effort with 1 finger. The temperature is around 250. Is this normal? Reason I'm asking is because lately it has been stalling and very difficult to restart.

btw, installed the new o-ring yesteday on the LSN and so far so good, did not lean itself out. Let's see how it goes in the next few tanks...

Posts: 12 | From: Connecticut | Registered: May 2005  |  IP: Logged
RB Products - Rody
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It is normal that there is less compression when the engine is hot.

When your engine us around 250 and it stalls for one reason or the other it is normal that the engine is hard to start because the heat then has gone into the carburetor and this makes the engine much harder to start and to keep it running untill the engine has reached the right temperature again.

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Posts: 5412 | From: Allevard, FRANCE | Registered: Jul 2002  |  IP: Logged
hcfr34
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I have the same restart issue. What is the best way to solve this so I don't kill the battery in my starter box.
Posts: 13 | From: Tampa, Fl | Registered: Jun 2005  |  IP: Logged
RB Products - Rody
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Let the engine cool down.

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Posts: 5412 | From: Allevard, FRANCE | Registered: Jul 2002  |  IP: Logged
revoman323
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Here in south carolina the temp are 90-98 degree's very humid my truck has been running around 250-269 degree's is this to hot for this engine i have cut holes in my body to allow cooling i tried richening it but it was real sluggish im not having any trouble with engine stalling or hard to crank just temps im also using a cool plug odonnells 99 plug just need your opinion on this or should i drive and not worry

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Posts: 50 | From: bishopville s.c. | Registered: Jun 2005  |  IP: Logged
ViLL
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My 323 is very tight when it's cold but when it warms, it's easy to turn...I can hear the piston sliding up to TDC; it's a good thing right? Well, I bought a Nova cooling head and it works really well in this DRY desert heat where it has been over 110* since Wed. The hi temps here in Vegas aren't going away anytime soon either, so I'll be running the head for the rest of the summer, and throw the stock head on for winter. If you all are having cooling issues, I suggest you try a bigger cooling head. I was running at 260* temps and I dropped mine to 220* with the cooling head, I haven't even tweaked the HSN settings yet, and I really don't plan too (well, maybe 1/16 turn leaner) because I have excellent power at a nice stable temp (220*).....I'm using an MC-59 plug with Trinity Monster HP 20%.
Posts: 24 | From: Las Vegas, NV | Registered: Jun 2005  |  IP: Logged
RB Products - Rody
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In my opinion using a bigger cooling-head is only covering the real problem of the engine running too lean and so the engine not getting enough fuel including lubrification which causes the overheating.

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Posts: 5412 | From: Allevard, FRANCE | Registered: Jul 2002  |  IP: Logged
ViLL
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Hey Rody it's 118 degrees outside right now, if I was to put my stock head back on, my motor would run powerlessly because it'd be so rich. I gotta do what I gotta do to make this RB motor last, and no, I'm not covering up for an overly lean condition. My excuse is, it's simply waay to hot outside for the stock cooling head. The stock cooling head is really nice, it's sufficient for normal ambient temps, IMO not 118+ degrees. Most of the people I talk too in the desert southwest run bigger cooling heads.
Posts: 24 | From: Las Vegas, NV | Registered: Jun 2005  |  IP: Logged
RB Products - Rody
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Whatever you think is then best for your conditions, indeed if the outside temperatures are excessively hot you sometimes need a bigger cooling-head to keep the temperatures at a resonable level.

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Posts: 5412 | From: Allevard, FRANCE | Registered: Jul 2002  |  IP: Logged
hcfr34
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Let it cool down. That's it? If I am in a race condition, what then? I have had other motors that did not need cooling time to restart. Everytime I refuel or need to make an adjustment I am going to have to wait 15 or 30 minutes to start it?
Posts: 13 | From: Tampa, Fl | Registered: Jun 2005  |  IP: Logged
RB Products - Rody
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hcfr34,

You did not mention you were racing with it..., anyway, in this case you just need to restart it, as Bluereptile mentionned earlier in this topic the engine is just more difficult to get it going again.

What you can try during the starting is to block the stinger of the pipe so the engine will get a little extra fuel. Another think which is sometimes helpfull is to spray some brakecleaner on the carburetor body so it will cool down faster.

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Posts: 5412 | From: Allevard, FRANCE | Registered: Jul 2002  |  IP: Logged
hcfr34
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I will try the break cleaner thank you.
Posts: 13 | From: Tampa, Fl | Registered: Jun 2005  |  IP: Logged
   

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