quote: I have read this thread about richening the HSN and leaning the LSN.
The HSN is set about right but if i lean the LSN anymore its revving up at idle and sounds like a pig, any suggestions ?
As far as the tuning, any time you turn the LSN, you'll need to go back and adjust your idle gap. I say this because even at idle, you are tuning the air versus fuel mixture ratio...So if you lean the LSN, you are giving the engine less fuel. In turn, you will need to close your idle gap to supply less air to keep a good fuel versus air mixture. Some engines have a decent sized window in this aspect. I've found the 928 to have a very small tuning window. So every little turn of the needles makes a big difference.
As for truck setup, it almost sounds as if your clutch may be slipping, or diff viscosities as Stefan mentioned. The 928 is a very powerful engine, and should bust traction at any given time. It makes my Losi 8T wheelie, and/or bust all 4 tires loose. This video is just a poor video I did, while tuning it out the day before a race day. The Nova at the end had clogged needles. http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-5298634156536846539&q=8t+lst2&total=1&start=0&num=10&so=0&type=search&plindex=0&hl=enPosts: 67 | From: Covington, La. | Registered: May 2006
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posted
Both had turbo plugs. I now run Nitrotane 30% fuel and either a OS#7 or a Dynamite #8 plug. I like the cooler plugs as they seem to idle smoother, but my LHS seldomly carries the #8's.
The NR528 had gasket chunks from the fuel tank's orings in it's needles, that had corroded, causing the leaning.
[edit] BTW, I have since learned how to use that starterbox correctly...LOL
posted
Thanks Dawgbone, the vid is very useful indeed. Its made my mind up for sure though that something isnt quite right with mine.
The ST Pro i have is running a brand new RMV truggy clutch (should be up to the job ?), and is running 10 10 3 weights on the diffs. I am have the 2045 header and pipe as i heard this helped the tuning issues slightly.
Ill have another go with the tune today but if you think any of the above sounds like a possible trouble area, please shout :-)
Thanks again
Posts: 7 | From: UK | Registered: Apr 2008
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if you wish to have a basic racing truggy diff setup I would suggest you to try F/7k-5k-R/10k to keep the front down. For a quick test you can interchange the front and rear diffs to F/3k-10k-R/10k. This already should improve your acceleration when clutch and ratio is ok as mentioned by the guys. If you want to have a wheelie machine then the best way is to lock the center diff very hard (100k or higher).
[ 19. April 2008, 22:00: Message edited by: Stefan ]
posted
Thanks for all the help guys, i just have one more question if i may, what is the factory setting for the LSN ?. I know the HSN is 4 turns and the idle is 6 but cant find the LSN setting.
I have decided to take your advice Stefan and lock up the centre diff as its only used for bashing not racing.
a wheelie machine sounds quite good :-)
Posts: 7 | From: UK | Registered: Apr 2008
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posted
Idle Screw is also called the airscrew, this screw determines the quantity of air you give to the engine when the slide is in its closed position. We do not set this screw by qty of turns but we measure the airgap you see when you look into the carburetor, this gap should be around 0.8mm to start with. Again these settings are a place to start from, in no way these can be the best settings for the engine.
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