posted
I am running the 928 in a K3 truggy conversion and cannot believe the amount of power that this motor puts out! I have tried everything under the sun to keep a clutch together.
Bearings of various brands and styles are good for only 5-10 minutes!
Aluminum shoes are only good up to 5 minutes, while the carbon shoes sometimes will make it a full 2 qualifyers. I tried a Fioroni black turbo slider and had the best luck with that, almost 2 hours of racing but just finnished replacing that one again. (the same clutch in my WS7II went almost 2 years)
I have tried differant gear meshes as well as differant clutch springs.
What can I do to keep a clutch in this monster??
Posts: 18 | From: Hermantown, MN | Registered: Jul 2005
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They got a car engine called "PRO-50 CAR" in their program (8.27ccm). There you will find a working cluch for your "truggy". I think you need a bigger cluch, if also high-end cluch components don't work reliable.
Have a visit on the above site and I'm sure you will find a solution.
sorry, i didn't notice that some parts just are written in German there. I wrote Thunder Tiger a mail regarding your clutch. As soon I receive the answer, I will tell you the (in my mail) asked item no. and the price.
posted
Just a quick update... I put in an Ofna vented bell with a Fioroni black sliding clutch followed by Avid bearings and this combo made it through 3-5 minute heat races and then a 15 minute main and is still in decent enough shape to continue running!!
Man does this motor make power! I have to be easy with the trigger to keep the front wheels on the ground.
Nice job Rody and crew on what I think has to be the most power per inch motor out there!!
Posts: 18 | From: Hermantown, MN | Registered: Jul 2005
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posted
Avid bearings are top notch and are ecomomically priced. One trick to increase bearing life is to remove the grease from the inside bearing. This is easily done by using any of the available nitro sprays or soaking in denatured alcohol. Although counterintuitive, what removing the grease does is it eliminates the possibility of the grease seeping into the clutchbell from the inside. When grease gets inside the clutchbell, it causes the shoes to slip and results in the generation of lots of heat. Eliminating the grease results in less slip and less heat generated.
A clutch bell is an interesting application for a bearing. The bearing only slips when the engine is near idle and the drivetrain is disengaged. When you apply throttle, the bearing slip actually stops and the bearing balls 'Brinell' the inner races of the bearing. Heating the bearing expands all the components and leaves little tolerance. Repeated pounding tears the bearing apart. Heat is the enemy.
Proper gear mesh lash is also critical to extending clutchbell bearing life. I use a strip of copy paper or two thicknesses of plastic that most bagged parts come in.
Last but not least, chassis flex is a major source of problems for these little clutchbells. This can be often remedied in some models by after market one-piece engine mounts.
Hope that helps. I've had great success increasing the life of clutchbell bearings employing the above info. If you have any questions, please post. Good Luck.
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Thanks for the info! Sometimes the most obvious is the hardest to grasp as in the clutch balls not moving when the clutch is engaged! Most obvious but completely slipped by me. And removing the grease makes sooo much sense but I have never done that trick either. I will employ both into my truggy this weekend and see how much more life I can get out of them...
Posts: 18 | From: Hermantown, MN | Registered: Jul 2005
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posted
what i had to do on mine.. and seems to be best so far.. i had this issue last season, was solved thi sseason..
mugen composites with .9 springs.. when you have a heavy spring the shoe does not hold tight enough to the clutch bell and well it starts to fade/slip after a amount of time.. i made it all season on the same clutch this year vs 1 race day..
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