posted
Hey, I have a TM928 that is on about tank 15 now and am starting to experience flame outs. The last race I decided to put in a fresh plug, bumped it, put it on the track for warm-ups, ran 3 laps and everything was back to normal and perfect, came in fueled up for the main spent about 1 minute blipping the throttle before the tone to keep it cleared out, dropped the truck pinned the throttle and coasted 10 feet, rebumped and ran about 30 feet, then about 20 feet.
After about 5 times I was a number of laps down, so we twisted a few screws and got it running great on the bench, put it on the track and proceeded to pick off racers one by one for about 4 minutes, everything was perfect. And then with no warning. FLAME OUT again.
This time we could not keep it running long enough to get the wheels to the dirt. Even with the glow stick attached it would load up and die within a few seconds and no amount of carb tweaking could fix it.
Another racer with the same motor was having similiar issues with the exception of his would re-fire and get back to racing. We are both running White Lightning 30% with 1 shim and a #7 RB plug.
I am thinking of trying a warmer plug but looking for any ideas that may help.
Posts: 18 | From: Hermantown, MN | Registered: Jul 2005
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If any silicone base oil has been used or has come into your engine it can make you cause these kind of flameouts, they are indeed very annoying but it is not the fault of the engine, nor the glowplugs.
posted
I suggest you use ours, we do not know which type of oil that is and we have experienced flame-outs with oils not compatible with these nitro engines.
I hope for you that the oil did not contain any silicone because then your problem will be there for a long time because once the silicone in the engine you cannot get it out anymore.
posted
I don't think that is the problem because I have a WS7II with about a gallon through it that is OK, but I will switch anyway because I have a new .12 coming in on monday as well.
I have done alot of reading elsewhere in the forums and I think that advancing the timing a bit with a #6 may help but that the ultimate problem is silply with my tune-up.
My WS7II went through some pretty weird characterisics as it advanced through the break-in process that all went away at the end, I am starting to wonder if I am experiencing that again?
Posts: 18 | From: Hermantown, MN | Registered: Jul 2005
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posted
Normally you should not experience these problems because we never experience these when attending to the races. So I hope you are right in what you say...
posted
What I meant by weird characteristics was that the temps jumped up even though I had not touched the needles and it was still gargly rich throughout the RPM band, and then just as suddenly as it jumped up a few tanks later it dropped a good 30 degrees, again without touching any needles. That's when the thing started to rip!
After thinking it through some more. Do you think the weather could cause that? And would you advise me to in fact try the #6 if I continue to experience flame outs?
Posts: 18 | From: Hermantown, MN | Registered: Jul 2005
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posted
Yes, the weather can have some influence but not so fast. Could be there is some dirt in the main-needle or somewhere else which can also make the changes in carburation.
And yes, do not hesitate to try a different No. of glowplug.
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Thank you for all the help! It has been a pleasure, and I will let you know how things turn out after the next race!!
Posts: 18 | From: Hermantown, MN | Registered: Jul 2005
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posted
Heat and humidity have a lot to do with the tune. If your tune was say on the rich side, and the temps and humidity increased a lot (My track varies over 30 degrees F from morning to afternoon) it could easily send your tune into the "TOO RICH" zone, at which point yes, you'll experience what is happening to you. I just went through (I Hope!) a flaming issue right after refueling, about 100 feet down the track, and I think that the heat, coupled with a too rich LSN setting, caused the motor to load up and be too sensitive to pressure changes, since it also was hard to clear out for a bit after refueling. On hot days, I run my engines hotter, by the same number of degrees the temp has increased during the day, using like 75 degrees outside as a basepoint. So if my motor runs at 230 at 75 degrees, I'll run it at 250 when it's 95 degrees out.
Posts: 994 | From: santa rosa CA | Registered: Apr 2004
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After running in this weekends ROAR Region 7 race I was having the same issues as always. On fridays practice session it was the same old story to the point that I was about to give up until somebody suggested a fuel change, it was about 11 at night and I was getting nowhere so I thought I would give it a try.
This year I decided to run White lightning 30% instead of the O'Donnell 30% from last year, and as luck would have it I had a half gallon left in the trailer so I thought I would try it.
I drained the white lightning out and refilled with the O'Donnell. When the new fuel reached the carb... PRESTO!... everything changed, I was able to throw it on the track and start clicking off laps!! Although I then had to go through and reset the carb, but that was it!!
Needless to say it ran flawlessly throughout the weekend and I was able to finnish 1st. in the A-main 2 laps ahead of second place!!
I never thought fuel would be that differant but I am now a believer!!
Thank you for the R&D of what I think is one of the best motors out there!!!
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