posted
Hi guys, Switched the first conrod today on the 728.., and found that the stock savage header is a bit small in diameter, the header measures 12.6 mm but the exhaust port is 13.2.... So whipped out the dremel, and modified the inlet to the required size... Problem we find on the 728, and the stock savage header its a bit short, and the diameter is a bit small, hence the problem of some engines running quite hot.... swapping from the stock plastic muffler to a ofna pipe brought something, today we fitted a 086P pipe.... but as the shocks are in the way, we had to use the stock header again... Maybe its an idea Rody to design a different header/inline pipe, so the 2006, and or some more lenght can be made possible...
For me the stock savage header is too short !!! It differs from a normal, Buggy header about 3 cm in lenght !!...
Something to think about, it would surely solve a lot of running problems for the savage guys...
As I run a Megalith which takes a normal buggy header, i have no problem and the engine runs at a steady 110 degrees C...........Peet.........
posted
That's my engine he is talking about . But seriously they helped me very good. It is a 1,5 hour drive for me but with the service the offer and the sheer knowledge he and his brother have it is really worth it! Now about the difference between before and after my visit to them. Before my engine reached very high temperatures even with insanely rich needle settings. After the puchase of the 086P pipe, new conrod and the lubing of the lsn (done by Powerpete himself)I did some testing the other day. Of course I had to to some tuning, but after about 3 tanks my temperatures are pretty good: Normal driving means 120-135 degrees. Long high speed runs 145 degrees (which BTW comes down really fast, 5 seconds later and the temp meter reads 125 deg.)And wheelie action (repeatedly nailing the throttle and braking)around 125. At the time of testing the outside temp was about 20 degrees and I ran my Savage bodyless. I hope the temperature doesn't rise much when I put the body on. And I think the outside temperature was one of the causes of the high temps also. Pete advised me to run #7RB plugs when the temperature rises above 20 deg. Maybe this helps also?
The only downside on this engine is the power. I had to upgrade to steel gears because this thing eats plastic spurs for breakfast! they don't even survive half a tank!! But I guess power always comes at a price..
I will do some more testing when I get my steel gears in, and I will keep you informed.
And I am now interested in the new orange fuel. Just waiting for more specs of it. So maybe it's off to Bussum again.. Anyway, 2BrothersRC rocks!!
-------------------- If you try to fail and you succeed, what did you just do? Posts: 61 | From: Oosterhout / Rijen ( NB ), The Netherlands | Registered: Apr 2004
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posted
ive had no issues with the plastic spurs.. BUT ive had a issue with cb heat from clutch shoes slipping, it gets so hot it actually radated heat to the carb and made it lock up check your clutch bell temps, i suspect the cb is so hot its melting the spur
posted
Well I will look into that CRS, that idea hasn't crossed my mind yet! But I have ordered the Robinson steel 48/16 combo already so my problems should be gone anyway. But thanks for the idea. How do I prevent the shoes from slipping BTW? Stronger springs? I am running the original S25 3 shoe clutch.
-------------------- If you try to fail and you succeed, what did you just do? Posts: 61 | From: Oosterhout / Rijen ( NB ), The Netherlands | Registered: Apr 2004
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posted
O one more thing. Although the 086 is not a 3 chamber pipe, it defenitly lowered the sound level of my Savage. That was the first thing I noticed. Another benefit from this pretty shiny pipe, IMO.
-------------------- If you try to fail and you succeed, what did you just do? Posts: 61 | From: Oosterhout / Rijen ( NB ), The Netherlands | Registered: Apr 2004
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posted
I use the alu clutch shoes from Hong Nor in our Megalith, have no expierience with the standard shoes in the megalith... but the alu's work very well, if the clutch keeps slipping and even turns bleu from thew heat, its best to put in some weaker springs, eg better, shoes, also the carbon shoes from serpent work fine......Peet......
posted
Well, I have cut a bit of my clutch shoes this morning because LHS didn't have stonger clutch springs. I cut them because my clutch engaged too soon. I couldn't let it idle withoud engaging a bit, because if i turned the idle stop screw any further out it would stall. I hope it works well and it only engages when I want to and apply power. My tought is that i can reduce friction and thus heat this way and the CB stays a bit cooler.
Maybe I should get a new clutch setup from Powerpete the next time I visit him, but I don't like the idea of cleaning those alu shoes every time I wanna run. So maybe the carbon serpent ones are more for me. I will discuss it with him the next time we see each other.
-------------------- If you try to fail and you succeed, what did you just do? Posts: 61 | From: Oosterhout / Rijen ( NB ), The Netherlands | Registered: Apr 2004
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posted
how is the THS Pipe working out? i got one along with the .28 but havn't installed it yet, wating to hear some feedback first, i was thinking of using the header from the ths along with the rb 063 pipe. looking to hear some input on this
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