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I'm trying to start a WS7III motor for the first time.
I was able to get it to fire only once. After trying to start it on my break in stand I tried to start it like an airplane by flipping the prop.
It fired and ran then stalled. I leaned it out on the low side needle and flipped it again. It fired for a little while (1 minute tops) then when I remove the glow ignitor it idles richer then stalls.
I leaned the low speed needle 1/4 turn more and started it. Ran then stalled.
I've tried 3 plugs and 3 types of fuel.
Now it will not start at all.
I've broken in two V-specs and a AE.28 so I've done this before. I'm just at a loss as to why this one won't start. It deosn't sound like its hitting at all. Now pop or sputter at all.
This engine is easier to turn over than the V-specs. It made an odd click just past top-dead center when I turned it over by hand. Is this normal. I put a little oil in it before I turned it over.
How many times can I turn this engine over without starting before it destroys the piston. Allready I've turned it over enough were any other engine I would return it ( though I've been told its real bad to turn an engine over and over during breakin wihtout it starting. It seems like the carb is plugged or something. I've never had such a hard time getting an engine to fire up.
Scary stuff, I've had good luck with higher end engines recently. Not saying anything, just trying to show that I've some experience breaking in engines. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Posts: 12 | From: Florida | Registered: Apr 2008
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Oh, more info...When I plug my exhaust pipe while at throttle fuel squirts out of the carb. At me, not into the engine! It squirts out of the carb in my direction like we're cranking it backwards or some thing.
Is that normal?
Still no sputtering at all. The RB guys at my track are stumped as well.
Posts: 12 | From: Florida | Registered: Apr 2008
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posted
Only thing you can do is take the engine and carb apart and see if everything looks like it should.mabe you are spinning the prop the wrong way on the bench ? also, take a brand new glow plug and connect it to your glow igniter, make sure you get a nice bright white glow from the plug to verify your glow starter.I think you want to spin your prop counter clockwise ? are you spinning it clockwise ?
[ 10. August 2008, 03:56: Message edited by: lst123 ]
Posts: 55 | Registered: Aug 2007
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posted
make sure you have no air leaks..also check if you have a good air pressure seal on the tank..
make sure the engine is not flooded..
put the LSN/HSN back to factory and put a new plug..make sure you have a good batts in the ignition starter..
Posts: 3 | From: san diego | Registered: Jul 2008
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Yes, I'm spinning counter clock wise, when faceing front of engine. (We did try to crank it the the other direction just to see if the engine was set up backwards or something LOL!)
None, yes none of our glow starters out of half a dozen tried make any of the plugs glow white! Orange is the best we got lighting every turn of the coil except for the very last one. I got way better glow from an OS p3 plug so that is what is in it. Broke in other engines with this P3 type plug. We started a Os 28xz with a turbo plug to test my igniter.
I think there is something terribly wrong with this engine. I pulled the glow plug and added fuel to the carb manually. Then turned the engine over till fuel went from spashing out the glow plug hole to misting out. Then put the plug and igniter on. No puff, or any fire at all. So even if the carb is shot she should have at least sputtered with that fuel in the crankcase. How its even possible to not get any hits at all after that is beyond me!
Have put the engine back to factory twice. Manual sheet says 3.5 turns out on high speed needle and 5 turns out on low speed.
The few times I did get her to run she would not stay running long. I'll dunk her underwater in the sink and blow into the fuel line to check for leaks.
Tomarrow I'll head to the hobby shop for more P3 plugs, another type of fuel, the best igniter they have in stock and try again. If its the igniter we'll be set for sure tomarrow.
Thanks for the help. I'm not about to take apart the carb on a brand new $400 engine. If it needs dissassembly that drastically when its new then it is defective and needs replaced. I can't trust this mill if its allready got problems. I'm sure RB will make things right if thats the case.
Posts: 12 | From: Florida | Registered: Apr 2008
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I got real lucky today at the track. Just happened there was someone there who has taken apart RB engines before.
We pulled the needles, removed the brass high speed needle assembly and checked its seals at the fuel inlet.
I tested for leaks the night before.
Then I made the world biggest glow igniter. I used an old Tower hobbies power panel and the wired glow igniter connected to a 12v group 31 battey. You just dial in how much glow you want. Seems it took a lot more power to make a Turbo plug glow as well as a standard.
It was still very hard to start and keep the engine running. After 250cc of fuel the engine started to run very well.
In fact at this point the engine was running so well on the bench I could fill the tank and walk away. The engine held 210-230 degrees at a speed hardly past idle. (Covered the cooling head to shield it from the prop.)
Put the engine in the car and went through two tanks tonight. Ran real well. Still very rich on the top end at the factory settings. I would have run longer but my temp gauge was low on batteries. Even though I had excellent smoke I knew it was time to quit for the day.
This is a huge relief, especially when all the RB fans at my track can only offer: "Gee mines never had any problems, that can't be a good sighn."
Thanks for the tips. The only concern I have now is how much extra wear did I put on this poor little engine trying to start it multiple times.
Posts: 12 | From: Florida | Registered: Apr 2008
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