posted
Hi I have seen this article ans as i am about to run in my RB V15 i was wondering if what they say was true , as there is names of engine makers and racers written down on that article and we can also see your name (rody Roem) being used in that article saying that you also use the heat cycling methode for running in your engines . The person writes that he has talked with you and others and that all the top racers are doing it hat way now ...
"If you are still idling at least a tank through during break-in, you're using the old-school accepted method (still works well for some!) but it's not the method that the top engine guys (Ron Paris, Dennis Richey, Rody Roem, Michael Salven are just a few I've spoken personally with about this) recommend anymore.
From the very 1st time you start your engine, plop the car on the ground & begin running it in a parking lot in 2-3 minute intervals, tuned only *slightly rich* getting the temps up in the 200F range on a normal day. Every 2-3 minutes, shut the engine down & let it cool completely with the piston at BDC, and then fire it back up; continue this cycle until you've run 15 min or so, and then bump up to 3-4 minute intervals. Vary the RPM and don't be afraid to get the temps in the 200's. What you want is heat cycling of the components without the incredible stress that comes with breaking an engine in when it's overly rich & cold. After cycling the engine in this manner for about 20-25 total minutes, it'll be ready for the track and race tuning. I realize this method goes against the old-school "idle on the box" routine, but you'll be amazed once you've completed this break-in routine, your engine will still have amazing pinch w/out sticking at the top AND your engine's compression will last far longer than it will with the "old school" method. "
Here is also a link to the full article about that heat cycling method. http://www.******.net/enginetempering.php Thank's for answering me as i am now lost in how i should do it . Also would like your opinion on the fact if the outside temps might not be good for running in my engine as here in Finland we have betwenn -5c to +2c at the moment and i wonder if it would not be better to do the running in once spring will come ?
Posts: 2 | From: finland | Registered: Feb 2008
| IP: Logged
posted
Both methods are valid for me, indeed the "old school" method is the one which we instruct to the persons who have no or little experience, so in this way we are sure things should be good for the engine.
The "heat cycling" method is also a valid one for me, however this method is maybe a little too fast and the moving parts are maybe wearing a little faster with this method after the running-in period.
And yes indeed it is not advised to run-in the engine in these very cold circumstances since the low temps do not let expand everything and so the wear of the moving parts can be bigger in this way.
posted
thank's a lot rody and please never stop making thoses engines that we al enjoy so much
Posts: 2 | From: finland | Registered: Feb 2008
| IP: Logged
UBBFriend: Email this page to someone!
