posted
I'm new to this forum and new to Nitro in general so this may be a quick fix. When I tried to do my first tank break in I had trouble keeping the motor running. It would atart and then as soon as I pulled the driver of of the plug it would slow down slightly and stall. I started to play with the lsn and had no luck going in or out. Later I realized that I had a slow leak from the fuel filter. I tightened it up and then my glow plug driver was out of juice so I couldn't finish. Would the leak have caused this problem? Also, where should the idle return stop be set on initial start up. I couldn't find it posted anywhere. BTW I followed the instructions for my needle settings and break in procedure i/e preheating block and such. Thanks in advance for any help. It's raining today so I won't get to finish it till later.
Posts: 1 | From: New York | Registered: Jul 2007
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posted
Could be you engine had too much fuel inside which you needed to clean out to keep it at a decent idle. If this is your first nitro engine I suggest you ask your LHS to help you to set the engine for the first time since this will avoid a lot of aggravation.
Depending on how big the leak was, I do not think at this stage this would have influenced something... The idle return stop should be set that when the carburetor is closed you have a gap of approx. 0.5 to 0.8mm
posted
Matt, its funny that I am having exactly the same problem as you, the exact same thing happen to me, and we drive the same truggy, XT8. =) Only difference is I have the S7. So well, Ill have to charge my battery today and go give it another try tomorrow =)
Posts: 8 | Registered: Aug 2007
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Quote Rody: "If this is your first nitro engine I suggest you ask your LHS to help you to set the engine for the first time since this will avoid a lot of aggravation."
Does this mean that the carburator is not factory-set for an easy first start? The reason why I ask, is because I too had big problems getting through the first tank on my brother's new WS7III. As soon as we removed the glow-driver, the engine stalled. I consider myself fairly experienced as a tuner, so I leaned the LSN with about 1/8 of a turn, and the engine ran better, but not perfect... it stalled about 15 times!
I did not want to fiddle with the settings any further, so I opted to help the engine each time it was about to stall, just gave it some throttle. Not a perfect solution, perhaps, but it did take us through that first tank of fuel.
My previous RB engines (on-roads, C2, C3, CE) fired up like a dream when they were new, so this was a bit shocking, I must admit... Posts: 15 | From: Norway | Registered: Jul 2007
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The engines are still shipped with a pre-set carburetor, however it is possible the engine can stall out on you, it is not a problem if you have prevented the engine from stalling.
posted
one thing to remember guys is the engines are set over the water to be a universal starting point. depending where you live you may have to make a few adjustments to get it to idle correctly and so forth
-------------------- jesus saves Team Panther Team Xray. TQ Fuel Posts: 443 | From: Purvis, Ms | Registered: May 2004
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Hi guys. I agree with something like what "wes" is saying. Depending on the fuel you run,to the plug you run, too the different areas of the world you run these motors in,such as air densities and temps,all these fundementals and more particapate in the runing of an r.b,tuning etc.Although These motors are very compedetive,Iv'e sometimes found that the universal starting piont is non- aplicable.Just have to play with settings a touch to get it too run rich happily,and a new r.b is born!
Posts: 12 | From: Australia | Registered: Nov 2007
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posted
I agree with kc_nitro_rc, I have on occasion had to run in (non-RB!) motors with the glow ignitor on, usually because I didn't have a hot enough plug with me.
Now I use RB motors exclusivelly I have to say that they are the easiest motors to start I have found. Started breaking a new S7 tonight. It's 6 degrees C ambient with a wind chill where I am. Wrapped the head in tin foil and an old walking sock, leaned the low end about 1/8th turn and pre-heated the motor to about 160F. Started like a dream and idled the first tank with out me having to do anything at all to it.
Posts: 26 | From: Southampton, UK | Registered: Nov 2007
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posted
If you keep the glow ignitor on the glowplug it indeed keeps the engine running more easily, so this is possible indeed for the first tank when you are not running the car.
However with these cold outside temperatures be aware that the engine has a hard time reaching the right working temperatures, so take it easy and let your engine reach a good temperature before you start to ask an effort from your engine.
I bought a C6BBT7 for my buggy At first I was realy happy about having the RB engine..
How my running in procedure ran? As always i read the instruction manuals and they´re as good as they should be.. Becouse I have known,that cold weather could possibly stop the good running in the engine,i heatet up the engine with industrial blowdrier to get working temperature.. I knew that changing the plug would be better,becouse it´s cold in this time of the year, i gave the turbo 5 in..i gave more richer mix and engine ran perfetc as it should.. I left it to run trought the first tank,and than I left to drive it next 4-5 tanks trough.. With a good hand of tuning up the carburator,the engine realy blow me away,I was realy studen by the power of the engine..that´s heaven!
With some good taking advices,you can always complete your running in the engine and keep a good work!
Like Rody says: "However with these cold outside temperatures be aware that the engine has a hard time reaching the right working temperatures, so take it easy and let your engine reach a good temperature before you start to ask an effort from your engine"
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