posted
When we pre-run the engines on our bench we run the engines around 20.000 at the first tanks and gruadually up to 30.000 The engines are run 5 tanks with a cool-down period in between.
I'm pretty new to all this nitro bussiness, but have been racing electric RC for about 20yrs.
Having now decieded i like RB engines best. (having tried a few other brands besides) I've just purchased myself a C6BB 7T. I will hopefuly start running this in on my hudy bench at the weekend.
Can you please elaborate on how you bench run in your engines please. A comperhensive step by step guide would be really nice , if possible.
I also have a few questions. The Hudy manual says to only run the engine "slightly" rich where as yourselves recommend running it for the first tank more or less as rich as you can ??
Also when bench running in do you lean the motor out between tanks ?? Or do you run all 5 tanks with the very rich settings ??
I've also read that running in the motor at almost a full tune from new but for only very short periods, say 3 to 4 mins at a time and then allowing to cool, achieves better results, with the motor retaining far better compression than the "normal" method and as a bonus keeps it's compression longer ?? do you have any views on this ???
Thanks
Rod Mingo
[ 19. July 2007, 14:39: Message edited by: rod mingo ]
Posts: 13 | From: UK | Registered: Jul 2007
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posted
Sorry forgot to ask .... do you run a full tank of fuel though the engine in one go or do you do them in 5 minute steps or something ??? As i have also been lead to believe that when running a motor in you don't want it running for extended periods ??
Thanks again
Rod Mingo
Posts: 13 | From: UK | Registered: Jul 2007
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posted
On our bench we start running the engine very rich the first tank and then gradualy lean the engine out over 5 tanks, yes we do one tank per time and let the engine cool back down.
After this you need to finish running-in the engine on the track. This for 4 more tanks gradualy going leaner and then you are ready to go.
If you want your compression to hold then do not run the engine too lean and take your time to heat the engine up before each start of the race, also clean your engine on regular bases and keep the dirt out.
posted
Rody when you say very rich, how dose that setting compare to how you'd normally have the carb set when the motor leaves the factory ??
Thanks for your answer, But i must confess I was hoping for more details about your procedure. How much throttle you use for each tank, what temps you look for, How rich/lean you adjust to after each tank etc.
I reallywant the best from my new motor and don't want to spoil things before ever it gets to the track...
Cheers
Rod
[ 20. July 2007, 09:09: Message edited by: rod mingo ]
Posts: 13 | From: UK | Registered: Jul 2007
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posted
If you want the best for your engine then I suggest you should just follow the instructions supplied with the engine...
Now you have purchased a product we do not sell and you ask us how to operate this...
It is true that we do our own running-in of our engines in a similar way but if you use the search engine of our forum you can also read that we do not really support this for security reasons. Also if you ask me for more detail it becomes really complicated to explain to you everything which I prefer not to do because it seems you do not want to do things wrong, which I can understand but I do not want you to misunderstand things too.
An engine with a rich setting suffocates of a too much fuel arriving into the engine, I cannot tell you how much turns this is on the main-needle, just open it 3 more turns from factory and try. If you have no experience with all this then I suggest you do not even use the bench but the run-in instructions supplied with the engine.
I buy what is reported to be your best buggy engine(@ £269), I then purchase a run-in bench something you use yourselves, to run-in team motors etc.
I ask for advise on how you suggest i use the bench for the best possible results with the motor i bought, produced by yourselves.
I could follow the Hudy instructions as you say, But as i'm running in an RB motor and you use a bench yourselves i thought using your method work work better considering I'm wanting to run-in an RB ??
And when i push you for a detailed explaination of what you do(as i didn't really think your previous answers have been very forth coming).You tell me "you'd prefer not to do because it seems you do not want to do things wrong"
At this point i must admit to not thinking alot of your "support" for customers.
With so many different sources saying that running in new motors on the bench is the best way, I'd think it was in your interest to produce a complete instruction sheet on how to do this as I'd like to think helping your customers to get the very most from your product is a priority for RB ??
I can use your runin intructions supplied , But i guess wrongly thought that with your help i could do a better job using a bench like yourselves
[ 21. July 2007, 01:19: Message edited by: rod mingo ]
Posts: 13 | From: UK | Registered: Jul 2007
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posted
I believe i'm back where things usually end up in RC.
Those that known how to do something well want to keep it to themselves in case the competition work it out.Or believe it's not in there own interest to spend the time helping the new guy out.
Those of us in the latter category then end up making the mistakes, so we can learn for yourselves. Something i will do, But admittedly it will take longer and i will obviously make mistakes.Something with your help i hoped to avoid.Bearing in mind i'm learning with a VERY expensive piece of kit.
If you'd been prepared to write a detailed explanation of how you believe a run-in should be done i'm sure I and most competent RC enthusiasts could follow it.
I must admit to being pretty disappointed in RB customer support at the moment
Posts: 13 | From: UK | Registered: Jul 2007
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i believe you are missing the point all together here
RB Products is one of the few if not the only the only engine company out there that gives direct support to the end users. You have been given a wealth of information from what i have read in the above posts
How about just using the instructions provided with the engine or ask your local hobbyshop for assistance in this matter. Rody has been more than helpful in this matter and all you are doing is becoming insistant when he has already given his thoughts or methods of running in the engine
what happens if you use the run in bench and chop off your finger because you were careless or made a simple oversight, this is a very possible and or probable situation, i have seen it first hand people chop off the tips of their fingers with a test bench.
if you are new to the hobby/sport the best thing for you to do is break the engine in in the car or buggy.
please remember that the forum is here as a tool for people to use when they are having problems, if your particular question was not answered we apologize
thank you
RB INC
[ 21. July 2007, 02:51: Message edited by: RB Products - USA ]
I have been asking for a comprehensive run-in guide to be made public, YES. While i admit to saying i'm new to nitro engines, i also stated i have 20yrs or more experience with RC cars.
ALL I'm asking for is the method used?? I'm not asking for your endorsement of the product or a health and saftey lesson. I'm quiet capable of NOT chopping my fingers off. My area of employment is VERY health and safety oriented, so i'm particularly used to making sure i dont end up killing myself or indeed anyone else on a day to day basis.
To be fair reading between the lines i believe the answer to my question is......."OUR METHOD IS SECRET" which guess is fair enough, i just wish you guys would simply say we're not prepared to tell you what we do...
Still disappointed
Rod
[ 21. July 2007, 11:20: Message edited by: rod mingo ]
Posts: 13 | From: UK | Registered: Jul 2007
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I strongly suggest that you perform the run-in of your engine while at the track. The method described in the engine manual is perfect and very thorough and will give you a healthy, long-lasting engine.
Thanks for the input, to be honest i really can't understand the resistance though to simply answering my question in full ??
The description/method described so far has been fague at best, some might say obstructive and i think most people would agree with me in that there is simply not enough detail given to attempt replicate how Rody/RB dose it, that being the point of the very limited info given i'm sure.
I believe the motor will be great please don't anyone for one minute think that i'm here knocking the product in anyway. I'm just disapointed at the resistance to helping me run it in using the bench.
Posts: 13 | From: UK | Registered: Jul 2007
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Was my first answer too simple to be true for you?
Here it is again...
quote:On our bench we start running the engine very rich the first tank and then gradualy lean the engine out over 5 tanks, yes we do one tank per time and let the engine cool back down.
After this you need to finish running-in the engine on the track. This for 4 more tanks gradualy going leaner and then you are ready to go.
If you do not know what is a rich setting on a nitro engine then things become difficult to explain... Also if you have read a little through this forum then you can find that the base needle setting on the engines supplied are just a place to start with and are in no way a point of reference!
Hope this has answered your curiosity and also yes, there are some things I am not willing to reveal in public or in writing...
I'm a person that likes things black or white. When doing something as important as motor run in, I do not like the huge grey area you left for me to wonder around in.
That said, I accept your answer Your unwilling to give more information away about how you run your motors in.
Thankyou, I will bother you no more about this subject.
Rod
P.S
I'm no fool. I can set a motor rich without problem. But there's alot of difference in how rich you can set a motor, from correctly to so rich it will not run......
[ 22. July 2007, 00:51: Message edited by: rod mingo ]
Posts: 13 | From: UK | Registered: Jul 2007
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posted
All I can add for you is that you must let the engine get used to the rpm's and temperatures they are working under when racing, I think with this you know what I mean.
posted
i just read the whole forum and understand that theres 5 tanks of fuel invovled in the bench break-in. theres a cool down inbetween each tank. starting with the first tank run as rich as possible and leaning the engine probably 1/16th of a turn leaner each tank. starting with the first tank you run the engine at 20,000 rpm. i take it you heat the engine up to say 125-150 degrees with a hair dryer or heat gun before you start it and let it idol for a minute or 2 right, before you start getting into the 20,000 rpm range? i also take it you work your way up to 20,000 rpm and your not holding it there constanly your bliping the throatle to cover from idol to 20,000 rpm currect? onto the secound tank, you do the same except getting the engine a litle higher in rpm range say around 22,000-25,000? same on for the rest of the tanks but not exceting say 30,000 rpm on the bench?
Posts: 44 | From: beaver falls, pa | Registered: Sep 2007
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posted
Concerning the rpm's, it all depends on the propelor you use, what is most important is that you take it easy with the engine at the beginning and stay on the rich side, FYI the engines in the car can reach over 40.000rpm so when you are running at 20.000 you are half way.
posted
also what tach meter do you use to measure rpm's. i have been looking at a apogekits model #DTO6234 it goes from 2.5-99,999 rpm range and cost $80 usd
Posts: 44 | From: beaver falls, pa | Registered: Sep 2007
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posted
ok thanks rody im going to atemp a home made break in stand should be pretty easy. a sheet of stainless steel, a drill, some steel tubes, washers,nuts, and a grinder should get it done. i'll post pics when i finish. may be about a week or soo
Posts: 44 | From: beaver falls, pa | Registered: Sep 2007
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