I just got my R&B v12 - 430 version. I'm planning on running it in. Now the way it is done in the manual takes a lot of time. I've also read quicker methods of running in the engine. Those methodes are quite the same, start of rich, run the car rich on the right temperature. Then lean it out... The manual also states running 125cc while one tank is 75cc.. got some confusings with 1/8th scale?
The track i run on (AMCA -apeldoorn) is quite short and i'm using a shorter gearing when i drive their.. does this influence the run-in procedure?
Also i noted that the manual states to not clean airfilters? Why is this done? this will cost me a lot of airfilters!
Kind regards, Ruben
[ 27. June 2006, 13:28: Message edited by: cyclops ]
Posts: 4 | From: Veenendaal, The Netherlands | Registered: Jun 2006
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I can't say something on the tanks you should put through while running-in. Better you handle it as it is adviced because the difference in inner surface area of .12 and .21 engines is not as big as the difference in displacement.
The gearing is not important anyway. You should just make sure not to make too much rpm and to set your clutch so that it engages as early as possible.
As for the airfilters, yes, you better buy new ones every time. You can't wash out the dust particles because they are "biten" in the foam. Further, the dust particles get "shot" in the foam with very high speed which "cut" the foam. But for onroad use, they will last for 3-5 hours, especially when using an INS box.
Regards, Stefan
[ 27. June 2006, 14:56: Message edited by: Stefan ]
Thanks for you reply. I'll buy new filters then... what type/brand do you use.. since i now use the serpent/mega filters witch kost about 7 euro's... i've never heard of the filter damaging that fast... i'm amazed by it...
Posts: 4 | From: Veenendaal, The Netherlands | Registered: Jun 2006
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little mistake of mine ... I wrote 3-5 hours. This is what is writen for the offroad filters. And at dusty races I have to change them every race - fortunatelly just the foam here. Onroad filters will last much longer because there is less dirt . I use the RB filters or T2M filters in an INS box (open when I need brutal sound , not legal, just for fun), check them after a weekend and change them in onroad at least after about 15 hours when previous checks were ok. Prices are about 8€-9€ for 1:8th. But the facts on the filters are the same (no washing, ...).
[ 27. June 2006, 21:40: Message edited by: Stefan ]
I do notice that my filters get very dirty on some days... and i need to change them after a few ours because there is to mutch dirt on them... am i just using to mutch oil then?
How mutch oil do you guys put on the filter?
Posts: 4 | From: Veenendaal, The Netherlands | Registered: Jun 2006
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posted
Do you use an INS box? With this box also the dirt coming up from the gearing doesn't get on the filter. I just get out about 15 hours with that box. Without it it gets dirty much faster. You should massage in the oil in a way that the whole filter is lightly but enough oiled all the way through. Do it until it is well oiled and clean the excessive oil off, if you don't do that the oil will indeed collect much more dirt at the outside and this will close the airfilter. The result will be poor power. Also don't oil it more after you have used it once.
[ 28. June 2006, 08:11: Message edited by: Stefan ]
i have an mugen ins-box, but i don't use them because the sound is different and it's harder to hear if the engine is running well or not... since i'm still learning i want to hear the engine beter Posts: 4 | From: Veenendaal, The Netherlands | Registered: Jun 2006
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. I use the RB filters or T2M filters in an INS box (open when I need brutal sound ![[Big Grin]](biggrin.gif)
, not legal, just for fun), check them after a weekend and change them in onroad at least after about 15 hours when previous checks were ok. Prices are about 8€-9€ for 1:8th. But the facts on the filters are the same (no washing, ...).
