today my C6BB has finaly arrived and first of all I have had a closer look at the needles. Are they set for the 8mm venturi or for open carb? Also is it recommended to remove the venturi for that procedure?
[ 30. May 2006, 18:33: Message edited by: Stefan ]
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Whats the venturi got to do for the motor{if its in or out}Is th venturi going to make the motor run alot better? I took the one that came on my c6BB off, should i put it back in? Also i love my C6BB that motor runs over alot of the .28's and .30, its one sweet motor.
Posts: 2 | From: US | Registered: May 2006
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Yes, I guess it'll be the best to use it with the 8mm if you say so. When I said "remove the venturi for that procedure" I was meaning that just for the break-in?
[ 31. May 2006, 12:55: Message edited by: Stefan ]
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I do not think we mention anywhere in our instructions to remove the venturi, even for break-in...
If after you want to play with the different venturi sizes, then of course this is all up to you to decide and there are topics on this forum which have discussed the results of this.
However we supply the engines as an out of the box racing engine and you just need to follow the instructions supplied with the engine and use it as is to obtain the best results.
today I started, no I tried to start to run in my engine and I pulled through half a tank without getting it started (No brainless forcing). The engine made permanently a metallic sound that you hear when it's close to fire up but it didn't. First question is: Did I probably damage my piston/liner already? Second question is: Why didn't it start? I didn't check the needle settings as I guess they are factory set perfect to start without one engine missing. And my box is a TM X5. It is good and compact for normal starts, but I had that problems with my last engine, too, using this box. But this time it's not up to the box as the engine was close to fire up. What will be best to do now?
PS: I really know how things are working.
Every help is welcomed.
Regards, Stefan
[ 04. June 2006, 17:17: Message edited by: Stefan ]
All parts are still ok . I checked the needles and both were set 4.5 out. I set it 5 and 3.5 out to see what will happen. When it starts, I will richen the HSN to 4.5 again. But help is still welcomed.
[ 04. June 2006, 22:02: Message edited by: Stefan ]
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The metallic sound you here first is due to the piston and liner not being matched and when the engine arrives at is temperature the sound will go away.
Why you engine did not start I cannot see from here but you should not insist for half a tank...
Anyway, what I would do is warm up the engine with an hair dryer and try again. Also check before if the engine gets fuel and if the glowplug is working correctly.
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Yes, that was not the best to try it half a tank. But I tried it always as it normaly should be done and this over two hours or so (anyway, really handsome). All parts - first of all the piston and liner - are checked and in top shape. Of course I preheated the engine. And for the running-in procedure I use just a short piece of fueline directly from the tank to the carb (5cm, one filter is in the tank so there's no problem).
When hearing the fire-up sound but it won't do it, can this be due to a bit less of starter rpm? The rubber wheel of mine got 1/3 left. I have a new one here. I will try the new one and see ...
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. I checked the needles and both were set 4.5 out. I set it 5 and 3.5 out to see what will happen. When it starts, I will richen the HSN to 4.5 again. But help is still welcomed.
