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I have two Ws7 engines, both of witch are mounted in kanai edition 2 buggys. My first Ws7 run like a champ for about the first 12 to 15 tanks of fuel. but then the engine started acting like it had a air leak. I replaced all the fuel lines and made sure the engine was sealed around the carb,backplate,head, and card. But the engine still runs like crap. Got any ideas on whats wrong? and the engine doesn't seem to have the power it did when first installed it. Did my buggy kit come with a lemmon? I have tried leaning the engine out and everything but nothing seems to help.
Posts: 6 | From: Yokota Air Base , Japan | Registered: Apr 2003
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posted
Maybe you have not run your engine correctly or dust have come into the engine and you have lost compression. Anyway, very hard to analize your problem, could also be a carburetor setting problem. If you are not sure about all this ask your LHS from who you have purchased your engine for assistance.
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the engine is totally clean. I check for dust in the engine case and card and no trace of dust or dirt. I change my air filters very often. Like every hour, due to the conduction of my r/c track. I run 20% Trinity Monster HP in the engine.Well if you are able to think of anything else that might be causing this problem let me know. Thanks Posts: 6 | From: Yokota Air Base , Japan | Registered: Apr 2003
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The engine still has great compression, no play in the connecting rod. The engine temp was runing around 240 to 260 degrees. It have the RB EFRA-9863 tuned pipe on the buggy and the RB header. There is a dent in the pipe where the exhaust nipple comes off the pipe. Could the dent in the pipe change the way the engine runs?
Posts: 6 | From: Yokota Air Base , Japan | Registered: Apr 2003
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maybe the dent aloud air to enter where the pressure nipple and you could be getting air up the fuel line or bad back pressure or something?
Posts: 107 | From: America | Registered: Feb 2003
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A dent can indeed change the settings of your engine, if your compression is still good and there is no play in the conrod, there is no reason why the engine runs bad. So try to work your carburetor setting.
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Thanks for the information Rody. i just replaced my pipe and my engine seems to be running just like it did before. Now all I need to do is get in touch with Yuichi kanai and get some information from him about setting up my diffs with differnt weight oils. Thanks for all the help Rody. I will be in touch.
Regards, John
Posts: 6 | From: Yokota Air Base , Japan | Registered: Apr 2003
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when taking the piston/sleeve out of the ws7 do you have to remove the wrist pin before the piston and connecting rod will come out? I have ben trying the get my piston out with the conecting rod attached to it and it doesn't seem to want to come out that way. This is a new engine I am working on. I busted the end of my crank trying to remove the flywheel. So now I have to replace the crank. But like I said I cant get the piston out with the connesting rod attached to it, and I cant seem to get the wrist pin out either..
Posts: 6 | From: Yokota Air Base , Japan | Registered: Apr 2003
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posted
If u want to know anything about workin on engines the FAQ on this site tell u just about everything u need to know. But anyways, remove the liner and make sure the piston is at TDC. You should be able to pull the big end off about half way, then get something in behind it to gentle lever it off.
-------------------- Hong Nor X1CR FTE Powered by 421B, Ofna Pipe Sacker Pro Powered by RB S5, 063 Pipe RB V12 waiting in wings for new ride Posts: 41 | From: Australia | Registered: Apr 2003
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