posted
Rody, I believe I have a valid question here. You say you recommend the 7X4 wood prop...is that for ALL engine sizes (.12, .15, .21)???? I just ran the first tank on my homemade bench... http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.php?medid=24772
You'll notice that I'm also using a pusher prop to keep even more air away from the head. The engine was already turning high RPM's at only 80 degrees, so I just wanted to make sure the 7X4 is the right prop before zi go any further.
Posts: 1 | From: awesome Hawaii | Registered: Apr 2004
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posted
The 7X4 we use in general for the .21 engines and we cut the prop for the smaller size engines, this to increase the rpm.
If you are running the engine at around 80°C, then this seems O.K. to me(pusher prop or not that does not matter). However by using a pusher prop, it can happen that the crankshaft/conrod comes too close to the backplate, so be carefull and check the backplate if he conrod does not touch the backplate.
posted
Hmmm, that would be interesting! But, seeing that you have to tighten the prop down, which presses against the flywheel, which pushes the flywheel collet against the bearing, which would pull the crank forward if, indeed, there was any for-aft play, that would eliminate that possibility, right? Also, I notice that the temp fluctuates quite dramatically. Is that normal and should I leave it, or do I have to constantly adjust the mixture? We're talking about fluctuations between 78-89C Another thing...I assume you are reading these temps by pointing down the head just to the side of the glow plug. That's where we normally take them. However, If I point the temp gun at the side of the engine, just below the head where the combustion chamber button is, I get readings as high as 107C. Is this something to be alarmed about?
Posts: 1 | From: awesome Hawaii | Registered: Apr 2004
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posted
By tightening the prop(or fixing the flywheel) you enclose the front-bearing which holds everything together. The main-bearing is the one which floats, so no real problem here.
The fluctuations of the temperature are probably due to the way how you measure, very difficult to see whi this happens.
In general when you measure the temp. of your engine it is the best to measure the glowplug.
If I had it to do all over again, I would have mounted the pipe to the right of the engine and the throttle linkage to the left to avoid the intricate linkage, although I still would have used the block with the screws on it. That was my way of locking the carb at full throttle.
Posts: 1 | From: awesome Hawaii | Registered: Apr 2004
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Whoziwhatzit
unregistered
posted
hey, i have read all of this thread and have tried it on my car. it is not quite as rich as it could be, so i will try that, but i do not understand how you are supposed to get such low rpm's. mine is running really rich and at 70*C but it is at normal rpm's. im scared to do WOT because i fear i am doing something wrong. what is actually the reason the rpm's get so low?
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posted
k ill try that, it wont be bad to leave the glow-starter on it? cus thats the only way i can see it running more than 5 seconds. im not sure about it not being rich enough, if i can get it running, as soon as i hit WOT gobs of fuel are spittin out the pipe.
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blatblat
unregistered
posted
hi
I have a used C5. WHere can I download break in instructions? (Or is it just the bench & 7 x4 prop procedure?)
I have searched, read the FAQs and (most) of the break-in threads.
posted
Read every page of this topic and you will find all you need to know. Tend to pay more attention to what Rody says and take everything else with a grain of salt. Not that everything else is wrong, but some people are saying to just put the flywheel on the engine and run it full throttle that way...this is an example of a BAD idea.
Posts: 1 | From: awesome Hawaii | Registered: Apr 2004
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blatblat
unregistered
posted
Soo no downloads then? This seems dumb to me, as it would save a lot of confusion and customer dissatisfaction.
I have seen lots of partial and some conflicting advice in this thread. It would be great to have it summarised- here is my attempt, and maybe you gurus could correct me?
* 1 tank 4 stroking on the starter box * 2 tanks 4 stroking at WOT at 80c (with 7x4 prop or in car- ie with resistance) * 2 tanks 4 stroking at WOT at 90c (with 7x4 prop or in car) * 3 tanks at WOT at 100c (with 7x4 prop or in car) * Start leaning out for power to about 115c
Comments/ corrections please- but try and stay in bullet point format. Thanks
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posted
Hey blatblat, this is what you are looking for, it is in the FAQ section all the way @ the bottom. web pagePosts: 10 | From: Maryland, USA | Registered: Aug 2003
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posted
Blatblat, what are you using for resistance when the engine is in the car? The drag of the drivetrain isn't nearly enough and the tires only present a real load when they are accelerated from a full stop. Once they get up to speed, they have their own momentum and do not present the same load. Now, if you had some sort of air brakes on them.... As I said before, pay attention mostly to what rody says and not everyone else. I do recall a post from rody where he says "As for the running-in, yes you can do this in the car and this is what we suggest when you read our instructions supplied with the engine". By this, he means that, if you are going to keep the engine in the car, then use the instructions supplied with the engine.
Posts: 1 | From: awesome Hawaii | Registered: Apr 2004
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Lee-bo
unregistered
posted
I have run RB engines for 4 seasons of racing now, and i do on average 17-20 meetings per year. When running in my engines i believe rody's procedure is very good. I do not use a bench or anything like that, but as most people probably do, i run the engine in when it is in the car.
This is my procedure, and although this may not be identical to rody's, i have had absolutely no problems with any of my engines and they last for 7-9 gallons of fuel before a rebuild.
* firstly, i richen the bottom end 1.5 turns (from the standard rb factory carb settings) and then richen the top by 2-3 turns. * i then try to start the engine on the starter box, fluctuating the carb so that it starts. Then open the carb fully, the engine should just about run without the glo supply, thus as the carb is fully open, the engine is recieving the most oil it can, but is not revving too much.(the wheels on your car should only just about turn over) *once you have found this setting,(it does take a bit of time!) I run like this for 5-7 tanks of fuel, i also cover the head with plastic to keep the temp in the engine. *Remember that although the engine is being run flat out, the top needle is soo rich that if you put the car on the floor at this point, it will not move ie. the engine looks like its runnin 4 stroke. *at this point the engine is at no major load, not revving too high, and is recieving maximum lubrication. * after 5-7 tanks of this, i lean the top 1 turn, and lean the bottom 1 turn, run the car like this for 1 tank then tune the top end once the car is on a track. *this process enables the engine to recieve plenty of oil whilst running in, and also gives the components enough temp to expand and blend.
*this is just my way of doing it!! it may not be like everyone else's, but i have had no problems ever using this process!!
posted
OK. But what temps are you getting when you do that? You need at least 80C or about 165-175F or the internals won't expand properly. I don't see that happening without a heat gun or something, but even that wouldn't be right.
Posts: 1 | From: awesome Hawaii | Registered: Apr 2004
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s710_nut
unregistered
posted
Silly question time.... What is WOT?
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posted
Wide Open Throttle
Posts: 20 | From: Netherlands | Registered: Feb 2003
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s710_nut
unregistered
posted
Rody: There seems to be a bit of confusion regarding your suggestions with running the engine in, in the car? Just follow the instructions?
Also,
I have ordered the "415" V12 3port Rody, i wondered if you could see any problems changing it over too a turbo button and how this would effect the performance off the engine and the tunability of the engine?
posted
Rody: Thank you for your response... What impact will changing it over too the turbo combustion have on how the engine will tune? Harder or Easier?
posted
Maybe a dumb question, but when using the team break in, how do you stop the engine? Because I don't want to let it just run the tank empty!
Posts: 5 | From: U.K | Registered: May 2004
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posted
Well, basically, by pinching the fuel line, all you are doing is starving it of fuel, which is a basic term for "lean". But when you do it at idle, your rpms and heat don't pick up as much, so it's a little less drastic. There's no problem with it, but when you put the engine in the car, it's best to bump the flywheel, while it's at idle, with you're finger or the sole of your shoe.
posted
When you guys say run it rich, does it mean only the HSN?? And to achieve the temps, do you start to lean the HSN?? Thanks
Posts: 77 | From: Westchester | Registered: Jun 2003
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posted
I am scared of one thing. The big end on the .28 when using a propellor. I mean the crankshaft is pulled in the way of the propellor because of its incline. but does this create play on the back of the engine so the bigend can come loose from the pull start wheel and thus jam the engine? I mean this is RB's first pull start and so the team break in is never used by Rody on P/S engines I think?
-------------------- If you try to fail and you succeed, what did you just do? Posts: 61 | From: Oosterhout / Rijen ( NB ), The Netherlands | Registered: Apr 2004
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posted
The crankshaft in the .28 will not move more then in a .21 engine so no real worries here.
This also not our first P/S engine and we indeed did not use the team break-in on this engine but did it in the car like most of the customers of these engines will be doing this.
posted
Okay thanks! Gonna do the "normal" break in then, as descibed in the engine manual.
-------------------- If you try to fail and you succeed, what did you just do? Posts: 61 | From: Oosterhout / Rijen ( NB ), The Netherlands | Registered: Apr 2004
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posted
One thing that I do tha t I think causes the engine to last quite a bit longer is preheating the engine before starting, ALWAYS! Especially important on the first starting and during run-in. I believe that a lot of wear happens when the engine is dead cold. By preheating the engine you are causing the cylinder to expand and lessen the pinch. Break in does take a little longer but it is well worth it. After several gallons through my C5 it still often gets stuck at top dead center when allowed to idle until it died after a race at 222 degrees! Preheating also causes the motor to pop right over saving your starter box. The tune will hold more stable too, as the motor isn't going from cold to hot on the track. Preheating is that "little extra" that you can do for your spendy little jewel to keep up that TQ pace.
Posts: 994 | From: santa rosa CA | Registered: Apr 2004
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posted
I was already going to pre heat the engine. Done it on my friend's hyper 7 and that helped a LOT!
-------------------- If you try to fail and you succeed, what did you just do? Posts: 61 | From: Oosterhout / Rijen ( NB ), The Netherlands | Registered: Apr 2004
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posted
I am sorry but i am still not getting a good answer as how to run in my engine I will be doing it in a brand new car so I do not know if the clutch will be set rite so how much effect can and will this have, also is it just sitting on the starter box / to keep it running or is it suppose to run on its own any help will be appreciated and any uncoved areas that I may be missing please feel free to fill in thank you in advance for any help. GUZZI
Posts: 6 | From: usa | Registered: Apr 2004
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posted
As explained in the intructions which are supplied with your engine, for the first tank, let it idle(on the starting box if you want), then after this start driving your car so there is some cooling, during this period it is not really needed to have a optimum clutch setting since you do not want to run the engine very hard because you are breaking it in.
posted
I need to break an engine in and I would like to use Rody metod, where do you guys take your temperature and what do you use to check it with. Thank you Frank
-------------------- art Posts: 2 | From: canada | Registered: May 2004
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I am new to the post. I have read most the emails pertaining to the Team Break in method. I just bought your Rody Modified X12 (older version of the V12). I followed the Team Method, I ran 10 + Tanks and slowly leaned out the engine. I raced with it yesterday, even during our club rade, I have not got it over 100C. After, I have inspected the engine and there seems to be some scratches up and down the piston. This does not seem normal to me. Yes, I have ran a clean oiled filter at all times. One thing that was mentioned to me is. I should have taken apart and cleaned my engine inside. Which I did not. I was told there is sometimes debris from machining (IE modifying of the engine).
Could you shed some light on this for me?
Thanks
Super Mario
Posts: 1 | From: Vancouver | Registered: May 2004
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posted
Normally the engines are completely clean, especially the Rody engines for which we even take more extra care. Now since we cannot see the scratches you are speaking of I suggest you contact your LHS or Dealer from who you have purchased the engine from and inform them about your concerns and ask them for advice. If there is then really something wrong, then the problem will be taken care of but only via your LHS or Dealer.
posted
I guess nobody on this board knows where to check the temp on the engine and what to check it with. I'm new to this so I would appreciate little info if possible. Frank
-------------------- art Posts: 2 | From: canada | Registered: May 2004
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posted
^ You check the temp on the top of the head over where the glow plug is. In other words over the hole in the top of the head.
To check the temp you use a temp gun.
-------------------- Mugen MBX4-XR Works (C4 Circuit & C5 Buggy) "Soil is for farming... Dirt is for racing..." Posts: 111 | From: California | Registered: May 2003
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posted
something i started doing, is before i ever turn my engines over i take the glow plug out and put a few drops of Amsoil sythetic oil in the sleeve for start up protection until the fuel gets there. they start ea
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