I work for the local dealer and have several requests to break-in engines for customers not wanting to do the first one themselves or lack the expierience. Several times their cars are not in properly working order so it is very time consuming. I bought a Serpent break-in stand and would like to know YOUR procedure for break-in your team engines or a general safe procedure with this method. Please be as specific as possible with temps and RPM range etc... as I will do it exactly as you say. Thank You
Posts: 3 | From: USA | Registered: Oct 2002
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posted
We are not using the Hudy bench so cannot really tell you which rpm's you should run the engine on.
Also there are some things I personally do not do is for example start the engine with an electric starter and this you have to do with a Hudy bench if you do not take off the protection. I of course cannot tell you to take of the protection for safety reasons.
Anyway, if you still want to do it in this way, I think in this way you cannot do a lot of things wrong. So before you start to run in an engine I suggest you cover the cooling-head with something so the engine heats-up properly(without the cover the engine will stay too cold). Then start the engine and let it run rich at full throttle for 2-tanks at a temperature of about 80°C. Then 2 more tanks at 90°C. Then 1 more tank at 100°C.
After this your engine is almost run-in, however you need to finish the rest of the running-in in the car for about 2 more tanks and you are then ready to go.
posted
Rody, If I were to break-in my engine on the car, can I use ts method? Rgds.
Posts: 63 | From: JB (Malaysia) | Registered: Jul 2002
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ALL the tanks at 80,90,100c are ran at full throttle? Do you just let cool between each tank as well or more often? Is the break-in RPM range somewhere around 50-60% of race tune RPM's?
Thanks
Posts: 3 | From: USA | Registered: Oct 2002
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posted
Rody, What is the advantage of running the engine at full throttle vs say half throttle?
Is there anything that can be done at break-in to make the engine last longer rather than break-in for maximum power?
Posts: 3 | From: USA | Registered: Oct 2002
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With the engine full-throttle, you are sure that the idle needle is not in front of the spraybar and so you are running the engine really on the setting of the main-needle and so are also sure the engine will run rich. Also more fuel/air will go through the engine with full throttle so a better lubrification.
The only way to make your engine last is to treat it well and to protect it from dust coming into the engine with a proper carburetor setting and a regular maintenance.
posted
Hey rody, When you run in your engines, you menchioned above that you don't start the motor with an electric starter. Do you mean you start it by hand? Do you have a propellar on it and just flick it or what? And is it best to heat the engine first time with a hair dryer first or not bother?
-------------------- Go fast or go home!!!!!!!!!! Posts: 3 | From: SA | Registered: Mar 2003
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Yes, I start it by hand, just like you can start by hand a model airplaine engine. However you need some practice to get this done, and be careful not to hurt your hand with the propellor. If you want to do this I suggest you use a wooden stick.
The starting can be indeed easier when you pre-heat the engine for the first start.
posted
I have just purchased the Hudy ERB and have run in one engine with it.I agree that there is to much cooling of the head.What do you use to shield the head?I could fabricate a shield that would mount to the front engine mounting bolts and it would be between the carb and head.Once made should I reduce the area of the shield until it lets enuff air to pass to yield the same temps as I typically see with the engine running in the car?I would do this with an engine that has already been run in.
Posts: 9 | From: UNITEDSTATES | Registered: Jul 2002
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posted
You could try and shield off the cooling-head using an inner chamber of a bycicle tyre. As long as you prevent the air from cooling the cooling-head too much.
posted
Are you just mounting your engine to be run-in in a vise or some sort? What are you using to cover the head to avoid over cooling? Seems the temps you gave will vary depending on what is used to cover the head and how much of the head is covered.
posted
What are you using to affix the 7x4 prop? I have the hudy bench now and it comes with an adapter and 4 3/4 x 17 plastic prop, but I’m not sure if the steep pitch is enough to keep the rpm's down under WOT operation. The instructions are quite different for running in that is included with the hudy bench.
Normally I have always just run-in engines in the car, but I don't have the time to do this before Saturday. Unfortunately I’m having to use my back-up engine very early in the season.
posted
You should be able to use the Hudy bench with the propellor which is provided, I suggest only to prevent the air from cooling too much the engine.
posted
Hallo to all! I 've just bought my brand-new WS 7 II and I am really happy!!! I ran it in on the car,with WOT and very rich. My question is :In order to make the engine run in full throttle,during the opening of the throttle,the engine picked up quite lot rpms (however,not at full rpm ).This happenned instantly (for about 3 seconds)but it happened for three or four times. Could this be a problem for the engine? Any answers are deeply appreciated! Thanks Posts: 2 | From: Crete,Greece | Registered: May 2003
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Thank you very much! This is exactly what I was told by another guy! Something else now:What is the procedure from now on?Should I try leaning both needles in small steps,or should I set the screws to their initial settings and try to set the engine to work properly? Thanks again!
Posts: 2 | From: Crete,Greece | Registered: May 2003
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posted
DO NOT USE A VICE! I have not broken in my car engines on a stand before, but I have done plane engines that way. The one thing I know is that if you use a vice, the slightest amount of pressure you put on the crankcase from squeezing it in the vice along with combining heat into the mix can severely damage your engine. When the crankcase is squeezed by the vice, it will re-form it causing premature wear, air leaks, and possibly hairline cracks. It is better to just mount it to a stand or make up a block of wood and bolt your motor to that. You could then put the block of wood (as long as it is considerably bigger than the base of the engine) in the vice.
Posts: 160 | From: Melbourne, Florida USA | Registered: May 2003
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...by the way my last post was in response to David Johnson. I didn't realize there were two pages to this thread.
Posts: 160 | From: Melbourne, Florida USA | Registered: May 2003
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posted
I just bought a V12 and i set the needle settings to factory according to the FAQ on the main page. But i have some questions. As I was reading this thread, it was mentioned that during break in to run the engine a full throttle. Does this mean to start the engine and push the trigger on the radio all the way down for a few tanks of gas? I thought going full throttle would damage the engine? On my engine i can't get it to turn over. i can do it by hand with and without the glowplug, but it does not turn over when i put it on the starter box. I also put in some after run oil to try and lube it up. Any suggestions? I was going to do it today but now its about to rain, so if someone could let me know what to do so that tomorrow i can do it i would be grateful.
[ 24. August 2003, 20:06: Message edited by: alucard ]
posted
the search options doesnt return anything that answers my question. it returns results, but the answers arent specific. Sorry if i'm inconvienincing you. but i myself own a forum (not for rc) and i know how frustrating it is to answer the same question all the time, so i do use the search engine, but its not returning good results. i will keep trying. I just didnt want to run it full throttle like it said on this thread and then find out i ruined it. Then if i complained that it wasnt working right and found out that running it full throttle was the problem, you all would have told me i shouldnt have done it. I just want to break it in correctly.
[ 25. August 2003, 02:53: Message edited by: alucard ]
Follow the running-in instruction supplied with the new engine or download it from the RB site.
Turn the main needle open untill the engine makes a 4-stroke sound, there must be fuel coming out of the pipe, and makes not to many rpm,s with,indeed,wide open throttle.
If you do it this way in the beginning you will not damage the engine.
posted
i just got my rody modified x15 and was going to break it in the hudy bench,but everything ive seen rody say it makes sense to me that you need the engine to get a certain temp so you dont wear out the piston and sleeve,whwats a good temp to do so rody?before i got my engine my cousin who runs RB engines in his buggy told me that RB makes a Rody mod engine and a Rody mod plus its tuned by Rody but they stopped breaking in the enignes because costumers were complaning that the engines were used or so?
Posts: 2 | From: MIAMI,FL | Registered: Jul 2003
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posted
When we pre-run the engines on our bench the general temperature reached is 80°C and on the last run I make it peak till 100°C.
We still supply pre-run engines and this is done in the same way we do this on our team-engines which are working perfectly. If this was not a good way to do this then we simply would not do this...
posted
You say to run an engine in at full throttle. Do you know of a way to muffle the sound of the exhaust, as they are very noisy. As i live in a residential area, and i could seriously annoy some neighbours
Also, can i break my engine in, in the car, as i do not have a propeller
posted
Ok, doing this break in wide open throttle...is the engine set up rich enough when I recieve it or do I need to richen up the high end even more?? Seems like the motor would exceed 80 degrees very fast no matter how rich it is???
I have never done or tried this way before!
Posts: 60 | From: Anchorage, Alaksa | Registered: Sep 2003
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Guys im going to try a new breakin method and the going behind it is that the motor has problems when you break it in cold. There is a motor out the that has 7 gallons through it and has one rod been replaced and still cant be rolled over under the chassis with the flywheel. I can vouch for that. It was broken in by Dan Rogers of RC Raceplace in Oklahoma. This may be contraversial but in open to suggestion's.
The way he did it is to start and run the motor on the box for two tanks at 210. This way you don't have the cold and tight sleeve stretching the rod. And the motor is at the temp that it will be when it hits the track. Richen the High speed needle a half turn and hit the track. take it easy for a couple laps then start driving like your racing and tune it up till you hit the spot.
Dan could be wrong here but I will be convenced when I break my new 5 port in.
-------------------- RB concepts. The real deal. Heres lookin at you Rody. Posts: 196 | From: USA | Registered: May 2003
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Hello guys! I did the rody breakin process on my Rody C5 and after 6 gallons of gas my motor is still a little tight at TDC.This really works and to add alot of guys at the track are asking me to break in thier motors for them.Doing this kind of breakin I've found that the motors run to the max at cooler temps. Posts: 2 | From: Los Angeles,CA | Registered: Oct 2003
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pardon my ignorance.. lastnight i got to read thru all the info i could find on the ws7II and was wondering if this break in would be a good idea on it or if its just ment for the c5
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I broke in my new rody tuned C-5 engine today using this method. I'll tell you something.. Use ear plugs. The 80c and 90c temps weren't that bad but when you run that one tank of 100c temp WOW that thing is like a baby screeming in your ear hehehe. Tomorrow I'll put engine in my kanai and run 2 more tanks to finish the process but I cant wait to see how this engine handles .
Steven J. Greenley
-------------------- 1/8th scale kanai owner new to racing but killing the compitition!! Posts: 20 | From: boise, id | Registered: Nov 2003
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