posted
Just about done breaking in my WS7, I got the high needle real close. On a full speed run, there is a faint trail of smoke, and the temp is right at 205 degrees F. But when I went to adjust the low end, cause from a full stop and then WOT, it was very sluggish. And would take 50 feet to come up to speed. Turning the low needle in did not have any affect at all. I went as much as a turn both ways, and still no affect. Any sugestions or comments would be appritiated.
Posts: 32 | From: USA | Registered: Jan 2003
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posted
OK, it's a little better. It still has a high idle and then it drops down in a few seconds, after a couple of quick laps. Temp is about 205-210. Still doesn't have the throttle response though. If I open the throttle from a stand still, it's still a little sluggish of the line. Any thoughts?
Posts: 32 | From: USA | Registered: Jan 2003
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The engine is set too rich at idle, so close more the idle needle until the rpm stays stable, when the rpm is too high you turn the airscrew a little out until the rpm stays stable again.
Good luck, Rob
Posts: 654 | From: Holland | Registered: Jul 2002
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posted
Thanx for the tip. I will probably have to wait until the weekend to complete my break in. What should I do as far as the main needle is concerned, while I am turning in the low needle? Right now my low needle is flush with the slide. And the main needle is just below flush.
Posts: 32 | From: USA | Registered: Jan 2003
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posted
First you have to complete the break-inn, then you try-out my tip and concerning the main needle, I should keep an eye on the temp (between 200 and 230F is oke)and the glow-plug (try to keep the wire shiny otherwise the engine is running to lean)
Rob
Posts: 654 | From: Holland | Registered: Jul 2002
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posted
You should set your settings back to factory settings ,And install a hotter plug .. your engine in sluggish becouse the plug is to cold. Posts: 28 | From: portsmouth va, | Registered: Dec 2002
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posted
Not yet. I will be running my car in a few hours, to try your suggestions. I will post my results when I get back. Thanx for the help.
Posts: 32 | From: USA | Registered: Jan 2003
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posted
Well I used your tips RvR and you were right. Way to rich on the low end. I ended up turning the low speed needle in just less then two turns from where I was at. And ajusted the high needle and the throttle stop screw accordingly during the process. This engine is extremely strong and has alot of power. I am very pleased. A couple times when I adjusted the low needle, I forgot to turn my receiver back on, with the slide open,(I had to turn the receiver off so that I could open the slide, so I could safely adjust the low needle without damaging the needle in the spray bar). Those couple times, I put the car on the starter box and the car started with the slide open. I quickly stopped the engine before it got to full throttle, but it still got to 80% RPM's. When this happened in those cases, the car was up to running temp. My question is, do you think that any damage was done? Thanx for all the input and the help. The funny thing is, when I went to my local hobby that I bought the engine from, they said that it was to lean on the low needle, and to fatten it up on the low side. But in reallity, you were right RvR, I was way to fat on the low side. Throttle respone is perfect!!! During the breakin, the engine never got above 235 F. And now after the breakin it's right at 210 F. Is this a good temp. Should I go leaner on the high end. Thanx again.
Posts: 32 | From: USA | Registered: Jan 2003
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posted
The rpm,s are not really a problem when the engine has reached running temp. Concerning the main-needle, you could try to run it a little leaner(1/8 turn)but keep a good eye on the engine temp.(200/230F)and the shape/colour of the glowplug-wire.
Have big fun
Rob
Posts: 654 | From: Holland | Registered: Jul 2002
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posted
Ok, now I feel completely lost again. As in my last post in this thread, everything seemed dailed in on my WS7, from crisp throttle response to engine temp and proper idle. I went to my local track and the engine was running great except it had a slight high idle after some laps. It wasn't bad though. So I applied what I had learned about this problem. I leaned out the low needle about 3/10ths of a turn and fattened the high needle the same total, over the course of three adjustments. And all of a sudden it was bogging heavily. What am I doing wrong? Is there a point where turning in the low needle does the oppisite of what it should? I am about 2 1/2 turns in from being flush on the low needle. HELP!!!
Posts: 32 | From: USA | Registered: Jan 2003
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posted
Oh, I forgot to say that someone told me that there should not be that much adjustment in the low needle from the factory settings (1/8th to 1/4 turn). Most of the adjustment is in the high speed needle. Is there any truth to this? I am thinking about setting the needles back to factory settings.
Posts: 32 | From: USA | Registered: Jan 2003
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posted
Ok, I just set my carb back to factory settings, 5 turns out on low needle and 3.5 turns out on the high needle. I had to turn the high needle in to 1.5 turns just to get it started, without touching the low needle (still at 5 turns out).
Posts: 32 | From: USA | Registered: Jan 2003
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You must know that the engine setting can change every time (different weather) so you have to take attention always as you should know the best setting exists but is never the same.
To see if the engine is set correctly on the idle needle, you pinch the fuel-line(close to the carb)while the engine is idling and when you do this shortly after the rpm of the engine should go higher, if this is the case it is set correctly at the idle needle and you only have to work with the main needle for good high speed.
Rob
Posts: 654 | From: Holland | Registered: Jul 2002
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posted
Sounds good, I'll keep that in mind. I know that I will figure this out soon. And when I do, it will all make sense right then and there. So in general, typically how far do you adjust the low needle from the factory setting? Is there any truth to what that guy told me about not really having to adjust the low needle as opposed to the high?
Posts: 32 | From: USA | Registered: Jan 2003
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posted
It is difficult for me to answer your last 2 questions because I always use a picco flatslide carb. on my RB
In normal conditions the RB factory settings are as they say on the rich side and can varie by weather and fuel type.
Posts: 654 | From: Holland | Registered: Jul 2002
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posted
Sounds good, I off to have another go at it. Thanxs for all the tip. I'm very appritiative. Chrys
Posts: 32 | From: USA | Registered: Jan 2003
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I am having the same problem MBX, That is why I came to this post. I have a WS7 and it is sluggish and doesnt reach top sped for 30-40 ft. I am about to set everything back to factory settings. I am however confused on what they are. Another post says it should 3.5 low and 5.0 high but your post states otherwise. Which setting is correct and where did you get your info?
Posts: 2 | From: California, USA | Registered: Feb 2003
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posted
The initial carb settings are the other way, here is the link: http://www.rbproducts.com/rbww/faqrb/carbsetting.21.htm When mine had the same symptoms as you are discribing, I was way to fat on the low needle. As I leaned it out, the engine performed better. And now, This engine is awesome, I am very saticfied .
Posts: 32 | From: USA | Registered: Jan 2003
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As in my last post in this thread, everything seemed dailed in on my WS7, from crisp throttle response to engine temp and proper idle. I went to my local track and the engine was running great except it had a slight high idle after some laps. It wasn't bad though. So I applied what I had learned about this problem. I leaned out the low needle about 3/10ths of a turn and fattened the high needle the same total, over the course of three adjustments. And all of a sudden it was bogging heavily.![[Confused]](confused.gif)
