posted
The running-in of our RB Concept engines determines a great part if its performance and life.
You must understand that when the engine is new the fitting of all moving parts like conrod/big-end, piston/liner are very close and still not matched perfectly, to obtain this perfect match the engine needs to be run-in. When during the running-in period you run the engine too lean and/or you overrev(too much rpm) or overheat the engine, you shorten life and performance dramatically and you can even break the engine. We advice you to run-in your engine with the same fuel you normally use for racing or pleasure. The carburetor delivered with our engines is set to make an easy start, not for the running-in.
On the carburetor you can find 3 or 4 screws on which you can make adjustments.
1) The most important is the main-needle(where you attach your fuel-tube), this needle is to adjust the fuel quantity at full speed when the throttle is totally opened. 2) The idle needle(inside the slide of the carburetor), this needle is to adjust the fuel quantity when the throttle is closed. 3) The adjustable spraybar(close to the main needle, opposite against the idle needle), we advice you not to touch this screw and leave it as is. 4) The air screw(on the side of the carburetor housing), this screw is to adjust the idle(low rpm or tick over).
When you have started the engine let it run idle(low RPM) for at least 1 fueltank, the idle must be regular, if the RPM goes down every time, you must close the idle needle(1/4 turn at a time), if the RPM goes up and after the engine dies open the idle needle.
After the engine has run idle and the fueltank is empty(let the engine cool down before restarting it) then we advice you to open the main-needle for at least 1 turn, now you can run the engine on the track so it will get used to the track conditions and be cooled. Before you open the throttle totally, be sure the engine does not take too much RPM(the engine must be turning like a four-stroke engine and you can see fuel coming out of the exhaust-pipe), when the engine makes to much RPM, close the throttle immediately and open the main needle 1 more turn, this until the engine does not go too high on RPM, run the engine like this for at least 3 to 4 fueltanks.
After you can start closing the main needle so the engine makes more RPM but still makes a four-stroke sound and smokes a lot, this for at least another 3 to 4 fueltanks.
Then you can close the main needle again till you are at 80% of its power(more RPM but still smoking), this for 2 more fueltanks.
Now you can start setting the engine and go to 90-95% of its power but take care the engine becomes not too hot or starts loosing power, if so stop and open immediately the main needle 1/4 of a turn.
During the running-in period the engine must always have a good and constant idle and turn free.
Most racers in my area often start breaking in the engines around this time of the year where the weather in Canada is about 9 to 20 degrees celcius, what is the maximum and minimum temperature when breaking in the engine on the car or in my test(HUDY) bench.
what is an ideal temperature the RB team drivers break in their engines at. (.15 X-15 using an exergen temp probe)
posted
Hi Rody!! I was just wondering... I was talking to Regan LeBlanc and he only takes two tanks to fully break in his and Rich's Odonnell R&B modified engines. He also said that engines will only be properly broken in when it has reached at least 180 degrees f. and that you guys just tell us to have the car idle at super rich settings so all the metal shavings would be flushed out and beginners wouldnt break the engine. I do like to keep it on the safe side and do what you guys tell us but I was just wonder what you opinnion on this is?
IP: Logged
There is no real suggested outside temperature for running-in your engine, the only thing you have to pay attention to is that the engine is not running too cold, especially when you use the HUDY bench. The problem when using a propellor is that the engine is often too much cooled and to reach the right temeratures(80-100°C) you have the chance to run the engine too lean because the wind is cooling the engine too much. We suggest that when you use the HUDY bench to cover the cooling-head so the engine reaches the right temperature without leaning it too much.
It is in my moint of vieuw not really good to get these high temperatures, when we are in the running-in process we try not to exceed 100°C.
Indeed we ask to our customers to let the engine idle for at least 1 fueltank since we want to keep it on the safe side.
Of course there are many ways to run-in your engine, everybody is free to do what he wants, however if you want your engine to last you must always be carefull, especially when the engine is new.
posted
Actually I meant 180°F. which is about 100°C.
IP: Logged
<kripto>
unregistered
posted
hi rody i am a big fan of yours i have an s7 desing ofcourse by u but lately i being having problems w it like runs sometimes preaty well and some time a turn it on and runs but it bogs out on me i being trying reajusting i being using long glow plugs 1.2 volts help me i dont want to buy another engine here
IP: Logged
posted
If you have problems with the setting of your engine, we suggest you try and adjust the setting of the carburetor first, it is normal that this setting can change due to the weather and outside temperature. If the problem persist try and change the glowplug, use only original RB Concept glowplugs...
Posts: 5412 | From: Allevard, FRANCE | Registered: Jul 2002
| IP: Logged
<Shky>
unregistered
posted
What's the real different the Europa S7 and World S7, they look pretty much identical, the only different i can see was the color of the heat sink and crank case are different. I believe they share the same piston and sleeve, crankshaft and bearings, so was it really worth to spend extra 40 bucks to get the WS7? thanks in advance.
IP: Logged
David
unregistered
posted
In addition the WS7 also includes an exchangeable venturi carb, included are 6 and 7mm restrictors, RBCC hardness coating to the crankshaft, 1122-C extra strong conrod.
IP: Logged
imz00
unregistered
posted
I think also the WS7 has a special coating on it to increase the engines operating life, whereas the S7 hasn't got this coating.
IP: Logged
UBBFriend: Email this page to someone!
