posted
Hi....I am going to try the new v12 motor.... I do use Sidewinder 30% fuel....I read in the "big" manual online that I should add a .1 head gasket....Do you have the part # for this..
Thanks...BTW,The new website is great....esp the advice on tuning the carb.....I didn't have much luck with the x 12 series,but I've heard good things with the V's,so I'm going to try one...(Plus the fact that Jim at Sigma is always there to help out,and my LHS loves RB)....
Also,in tuning in hot,humid weather,what is the usual tunning modifications needed?...do you richen or lean the engine in these conditions..
posted
With high humidity, you need to décompress more the engine, also you will need to richen the engine up and use a hotter glowplug #6 for example.
Just wanted to let you know I ran the v12 today for the first time.....
When it was on the box idling for a tank like you say to do,it was running around 130 degrees(F)..
I let it cool down,and ran it on the ground..richening it a half turn(as per procedure)...It was four stroking....and i gave it a few full throttle bursts(like I would at the track)...it was four stroking(and spitting fuel)...It was reaching temps of 165....I ran 2 tanks like this,letting it cool between runs(piston at bottom)...On the "run in" forum,you said to get it to 80c..about 170 degrees...and then hotter temps as you run it more...
Did I ruin the engine idling it at those temps on the first tank(it was set by you at 5 turns out)..and how can I get more temp out of it for the remainder of the tanks..leaning it a tad..or running it harder?....
BTW,this motor runs WAY better,even at break in,than my x 12's ever did...I'm real happy I bought this motor...thanks
btw,the product pages for the engines aren't working...
posted
Just follow the instructions as described and you should not go wrong.
Do not worry too much about the low temperatures, this will not ruin your engine, however running the engine too cool could make the glowplug act a little weird but no danger for the rest.
By getting more temperature I suggest you lean out the main-needle more.
I broke the engine in fully last night.....before I go further,let me add thatI owned 3 rb's before this.....(2 x12 3port turbo's,and a 5 port x 12 turbo).....The 5 port was OK....a little finiky,but OK...The 3 ports were a problem from day one....pistons always getting stuck,hard to tune,etc....(I was the guy who had the problems with getting the carb's off the engines).....I swore I wouldn't buy another RB...Well,After talking with Jim at Sigma,AND ron at Cruisin RC's in Ramsey(a BIGTIME rb supporter),and seeing how the new V series ran at the track,I decided to try one....
I have to admit,I've been really impressed.....the engine(V12 3 port,non turbo) last night,ran great...even on the 10th tank(still a little rich),it idled great...NO bog(a BIG problem with the x series I had).....and it was WAY faster,at 200 degrees,then the OS turbo 5 port it replaced(at 250).....This engine,when it hit second gear,seemed as if it had an afterburner on it.....it just TOOK OFF down the straight........
So good job by you(and yours)....In my second(still to be built) HPI R40,I had plans to put a Nova nsr 5 port...I'm going to sell that engine(which I bought 3 weeks ago) and drop in a RB 5 port(v 12).....
I have 2 questions for you....
One,in your opinion,if I go up on ports,do the engines get more tempermantal(and that includes the RODY versions)...and are the turbo plug versions,again,more cranky to tune than non turbo..Also,how about the v 15's?..are they a good running engine?....just trying to decide...Maybe a non turbo V15?.....
Also,any ideas how I can avoid the carb(getting stuck) issue I had with the x series motors?
Yes, if you go up on porting the engines become faster but also more thirsty and more difficult to tune. We always try to find the best balance between these points with the 'Rody' versions.
In my opinion the turbo glowplug engines are not more difficult to tune compared to the non-turbo engines.
The V15 are amazing engines, you have to try it to believe it, that's all I can say.
As for your carburetor problem, mount the carb with a little grease and do not overtighten the carburetor bolt. We already increased the diameter of the pin-bolt and so it will be more difficult to damage the carburetor-neck itself.
when will the website be up and working again?..The product pages are all non working..
Posts: 25 | From: ramsey,NJ..USA | Registered: Jul 2002
| IP: Logged
I'm wearing my RODY(RB) hat tonite....I go to the local rib place for dinner....and the guy behind the counter comments on what a great looking hat I've got on...He thinks its a baseball team....
I explained that it's the hat for an exquisitely made engine...and them proceed to pull the car out(which I always have on me..part of my mid life crisis I guess).. and show him my beautiful RB powered R40...
Bottom line?....He's coming to watch us race....never know..another RB customer might be on the horizon.....
this is what I encoutered in my dealings with this place I want to race.....and they go by ROAR rules........
{There will be 12 and .12 open classes. Please refer to rule 6-31 for descriptions of each. Basically, 3 port in .12 and 5 ports in .12 open. There has been an issue with the S3 based engines in the .12 class. The exhaust port exceeds the maximum of 4.5 mm. This would be all 3 port S3 based engines illegal in .12 class. However, for this race only, we will deviate from the rule and waive the maximum exhaust port height so that the S3 based engines will be legal in the .12 class.}
Can you tell me if the v12 3 port has the right exhaust port height for ROAR racing(under 4.5mm)?...and is it an s3 based engine..
posted
All I can tell you is that our V12 3-port engines are within the rules, so the exhaust does not exceed 4.5mm.
I do not know how the S3 engines are configured but if they use a higher exhaust, then they are illegal and should not compete in this race. Using a higher exhaust in these engines running with these restrictions is an advantage and is not fair for the other competitors who compete in this same race.
Why not use a V15, just for this race....
I know it is always very hard to make rules and surely to apply them but if you start to make exceptions then this will always turn against you on a possible later issue. Just my 2 cents...:-)
Just wanted to let you know about my second week of the V12....
It was even faster then the week before!!It idle's great.....stays running.....plenty of power...I'm so happy,I ordered a second one..(I'm going to sell my new Nova rossi NSR5 that was going into my second R40)....So now I'll have 2 V12 HPI r40's.....
Here's my question.....
I was reading on the "running in thread" about the team method of breaking in on the bench..
Do you really prefer this method?....and how do you do that?...Are you using a Serpent break-in stand?.....or just mounting the engine in your own design with a prop?....
Since money is no object in my hobby ,I'll buy the serpent bench if you like it....'
posted
when you say at my own risk,does that mean you don't think its a good way do break in the engine?....I don't have the means or space to make my own break in bench..so its the serpent or running it in the car..whichever you say is better,I'll do it....
Posts: 25 | From: ramsey,NJ..USA | Registered: Jul 2002
| IP: Logged
posted
Using a propellor is a good way to run-in the engine due to the constant load you give to the engine and a to high rpm can be avoided, however you better cover the cooling-head otherwise the engine will not reach a high enough temperature. As for the risk, I speak of the danger to hurt yourself, I myself have had the propellor explode on me and I was lucky..., this is why I do not like to recommend this method.
You can also run the engine in the car, the endresult will be the same for me, just be carefull with the rpm at the beginning that it does not go to high.
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