posted
i have the x-12 5 port turbo in my impulse pro. im having this problem with if i gun it it makes a bogging sound and then stalls. if i gradually get it up to speed its fine. can u help me here, Rody? thx in advance
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posted
ok i did what you said and now i can't even get the engine to start.
can you give me the easy to start settings for the main needle, low end needle, and air screw.
thanks rody, i really want to get this engine working. i know its the settings on the carb. why does all the carb settings seem to have to be in a certain spot just to start the engine?
i mean it should start up at any setting and then you adjust while running....right?
also, is there an easier way to adjust the low end needle without taking the engine almost all the way off...i have a serpent pro, fuel tank is in way of adjusting low end.
thanks again rody...ur response to these ?'s will be greatly appreciated.
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posted
Ok, it seemed like either your low end was rich or lean, it depends on the sound that it was making and wether or not the car was producing smoke(blue) or not. You need to reset the needles like Rody said. You may not be able to start the car now because fuel has built up in the crankcase(that is one possiblity). If you can remove the plug, and turn the flywheel some and looking in the head, you see the piston moving, the conrod is not shot, which is good. But if you do not see it move, it is gone and warrents replacement(according to Rody and others, even if it is not, you may want to replace the rod when you get it broken in). If it moves, then I suggest you clear all of the fuel out of the engine by turning it over with the box after you have disconnected all fuel lines. The piston hopefully will not stick at Top Dead Center, but because these motors are tight, you may run into that problem. If so, you will need to get a heat gun or hair dryer and head the cooling head until it gets slightly warm, which will allow you to turn it over freely. BUT MAKE SURE YOU HAVE SOME FORM OF LUBRICATION IN THE ENGINE, EITHER AFTER RUN OIL, OR FUEL. After these things, you should be able to start it, it may be rich on the bottom so you may or may not have to lean the bottom in 1/8 incriments until you can get it to idle(you will probably have to open your throttle a bit to help out. And to answer your question about the settings plainly and simply, No! These engines will not necessarily just start up, they are in fact "racing" engines, thats the name of the game here. They are designed for power, which means that they are meant for people that have experience with tuning motors(we all have slip up's with our tuning skills here and there) and breaking them in. The motor that you have in particular is one of the strongest .12's out there, but you must take your time with it. You also must have an idea, or know someone that has an idea about the breakin of these engines. Honestly, in my opinion RB's have proven to be the easiest to break in, tune, and powerful engines that I have ever dealt with, but I have been in the hobby for years and had many problems and experiences with motors of my own and others. What I am saying is that you need to follow the instructions that came with the engine to a "T", and you will do fine. But do not mess with the needle on the side of the carb(the spraybar adjustment needle)until you understand the engine and what the other needles do. Basic theory is that the idle stop screw(If I remember correctly is on the back of the carb, or the only one that is jutting out and has a spring on it) is for controlling how far your carb. will be open when the car is at a standstill and consequently the idle speed/rpm. The low speed neeedle(the one inset in the arm of the carburetor), controls the flow of fuel from idle to about 50-60% of the carb. being opened or the low end of the engine rpm range. The high speed needle(the well known one that sticks out almost vertical to about 75 degree's) controls the high rpm mixing and therefore the top end mixture of the motor or from about 60%-100% open. You must use logic when breaking in and tuning your engine. If you know that in your situation the car bogs when you first give it gas, then something is wrong with the low end the majority of the time. A sure indicator is the idle of the car. If when warmed up, the idle seems to slow down and die, then it is rich, if it speeds up and dies, then it is lean. That simple. You will find that when you get the engine to idle for a decent amount of time, you can start the break in which will entail you letting the vehicle sit for a tank or two at a high idle. You can then follow the directions for the rest of the break in procedure. Just remember with the needles the simple "lefty loosy(richening), righty tighty(leaning)" theory for your needles, and you will do ok. I hope this helps you out. Posts: 3 | From: illinois | Registered: Feb 2003
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element
unregistered
posted
thank you very much friend. i will try all that you said and see what happens.
i will post here with my results if you are intrested in finding out how i do.
i have set all the settings back to factory settings.
should i try with a fresh glow plug? i have a few on order. all rb turbo plugs.
thanks again for your response to my problem.
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droot
unregistered
posted
YES I would try a fresh glow plug. Running too lean or rich could take out the plug. I would have already taken it out and see it the coil glows witht the igniter on. The coil should be centered in the plug and glow all but maybe the last part of the coil.
I have found my glow igniter was dead doing this too.
posted
Yes, that would be fine(the letting me know about the results). I agree with droot. Take a look at the plug and see wether or not it is broken, blackened, or still silver. If it is still silver, then I suggest as he did checking your ignitor. I also agree with him on the discovering of a low cell(this can be a real pain sometimes also), which is not at all uncommon with our hobby. Posts: 3 | From: illinois | Registered: Feb 2003
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element
unregistered
posted
ok ive checked to see if the piston moves up and down while turning flywheel, it does, so conrod is still good. the glow plug was the first thing i checked for when problem occured, sorry guys forgot to mention that. the center of glow plug glows brite red but tip does not. i have disconnected all fuel lines, put some after run oil in head and carb and bumped flywheel with starter to push any excess fuel out. piston didnt lock in up position and settings are as they were from factory. so now all i have to do is wait for this freakin rain to stop. i cant wait to leave korea. anyways, as soon as the weather permits, i will try to start my engine. to be continued......
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element
unregistered
posted
alright...i got this baby startin!!! now i just need to figure out why my brakes dont work and why every now and then, mainly after a half a tank, the throttle servo gives the car gas with out myself pulling the trigger... i'm going to post a question in the serpent forum for that though, so dont worry bout it, just wanted to let you guys know how shes doin. thanks for all the help.
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i cant wait to leave korea. ![[rol_smiley]](graemlins/rol_smiley.gif)
anyways, as soon as the weather permits, i will try to start my engine.
