I've just stripped it down to make sure there is not dirt or fleck inside, my supplier swapped the crank from SG to Standard for me, so there was a little bit in there, guess he wasn't careful enough, but thats fine hence I check.
Firstly I noticed 2 rings as apposed to 1 ring on the piston, but they don't seem as deep as on my X12, is this a better lubrication holder/seal or for something else?
The Piston and liner just looks like it had a Gap put in the main ports, instead of the long downwards pointing type 4th and 5th ports we see on Novarossi 5P 12's. Does this further increase the fuel Flow speed? instead of just boosting the exhaust port which is what the novarossi design seems to do...? Will flaring the intake on the ports closest to the exhaust port like on the Rody V12 help a little.?
Finally, the V12T Rody 5P seems to have a Huge exhaust port on the Sleave compared to the Standard V12T in the pictures, is this just me?
I like what has been done inside this, it looks alot more Modified than my X12 was, (until my dremel met it, oops) in fact it looks almost a rody bar no mods on the sleave, Very cool, can't wait to run it.
My other question is, is this small Block V15T more powerful than the X15T Big Block or about the same?
I'm running a RC10GT, with a personally messed with X12 which is almost silly (back wheels all the way) so I'm hoping the V15T will be really really silly.(fast & Powerful)
posted
Concerning the rings on the piston are first for extra lubrification but also to recognize them once produced, so I would not worry to much here.
Concerning the piston/liner, I suggest you try not to compare too much with other brand engines and also I also suggest not to modify too much either, just try the engine as is and you will see it will work very well.
Concerning the exhaust port, if you compare between a normal engine and a modified engine, then indeed there is a difference. Also maybe the picture has an angle which changes the look of the dimension.
The performances between the big-block and the small-block .15 engines should be about the same. However there can be a advantage in weight, this because the small block is a lighter engine it can sometimes be an advantage in a chassis...
posted
Just a quick question, I appear to have obtained a "factory" or "team" version of the V15T,(I talked to my local supplier, he told me some of the V15T's he got where factorys myn might have been one.) I don't have a problem with this, however i do have a question, It seems like it's taking a long long time to break in. I've put 15 Tanks through it so far, and it only now seems to be dropping in temps and requiring leaning to keep the temps above 85-90 Deg C. This mind you is while driving the car. As I don't have any of the facilitys to make up a stand for Propellor break in. For the first 5 tanks I had to use a heat gun to warm it up to start it, it was not possible to turn it by hand,(with a 30mm flywheel) let alone the starter box until it was at least 70-80 deg. I've been running it basically as rich as I could run it without it stopping, while keeping the temps at around 80-90 Deg C.
After 15 Tanks of fuel should this be run in already, or am I just being paranoid, to me it doesn't seem ready yet but is getting slightly better each tank with little or no carb adjustment.
Finally what are your thoughts on using a fuel that has a High Content of Low Viscosity Synthetic oil (20% or more), with no Castor base, as opposed to more conventional fuel with a low percentage of oil (12% or less) that uses mainly high viscosity Synthetic and some castor.?
Synthetic oils seem to be the way of the future for all 2 and 4 stroke motors, are our model Car engines not yet advanced enough to cope with the all synthetic treatment? Or do they not yet make a good enough synthetic for us...
Kind Regards Juls.
-------------------- Fast is not really, fast enough. Posts: 1 | From: Australia | Registered: Nov 2003
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posted
I think your engine was just a little more tight then the others, however there are no special series made of these engines. The engine itself is already very special.
As for the running-in of the engine, just follow the instructions supplied with the engine and you should be O.K.
As for the synthetic oils, if you want to experiment, then the risk is of course up to you. There are so many oils on the market nowadays that it become almost impossible to guide you and tell you what is good and bad.
Believe it or not, an exhaustive search was conducted a few years back by a well known fuel formulator for a synthetic that outperformed natural first press castor oil. Results? Despite finding great synthetics with great properties, none could match natural castor's film strength, high temperature stability and anti-corrosion properties. Some synthetics offer extremely 'slick' lubrication which results in less generated heat from the energy scrubbed away between the piston and sleeve than if a straight castor was used. A compromise is using a blend of castor and synthetic. The trend in Europe is to use more castor than synthetic but to use an overall lower (8% total) % oil blend. In the US, a popular blend is 12% total using 20% to 40% of the oil blend being natural castor oil.
Less oil = more power more castor = more 'stiction' and heat more syth = cleaner burn, less mess. more oil = longer life (especially of the rear main and con-rod bushing/crank journal.
Hope that helps
Posts: 270 | From: USA | Registered: Apr 2003
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