posted
Took it out again today(Sunday) to check a few things. Ran it out to a peak of 299*f and decided to add a quarter turn of fuel. HS now set at 3.75 turns out(factory is 3.5). Ran great still, not as high winding and a bit more on the smoke trail. Then I swapped over to Blue Thunder sport 20%. Ran a full tank easy on the throttle to get the motor used to the new fuel then went to town. Ran an entire quart of Blue Thunder while tuning(and having fun it ran so well). Leaned out the ls needle further to tune throttle response. Still seems a bit off to me, but throttle response is great, idle is great, and max temps peak out in the 280's. It takes a lot of effort and some hard, hard runs to get into the 280*f range so I'm convinced my average running temps are actually down from before on the Wildcat Eliminator fuel. Idles great, nice and low, but always seems to want to clean out before taking off(even after a 5 second idle) BUT it ALWAYS cleans out. I trimmed the body a touch more help cooling. And I'm happy that it now takes a lot of effort to hit the 280 degree range. My perception is the Blue Thunder has brought temps down a bit. I feel there may be some room still to tune the ls, but doing so does bring up the temps so I'm gonna leave things for now.
[ 02. June 2008, 23:13: Message edited by: toymaker ]
Posts: 14 | From: VA | Registered: May 2008
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posted
Man I honestly think your temp gun is not reading correctly. These engines let you know when they are overheating and to me 280 is overheating!! if you say it ran good with a good smoke trail I don't see how it was that hot. Next time try the water test to see how long it takes to boil off. if it takes a few seconds to boil off a drop your arond 220 to 230.
Posts: 348 | From: Colorado, usa | Registered: Apr 2005
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posted
the new bryon's gen 2 fuel is a little harder to tune with. i like sidewinder the best 30% nitro 11% oil.rb #7 cold plugs one of my s7 engines likes to run at 260* degrees 2045 pipe 198 header.the other 230* same pipe and header. its just the motor.as long as you have a smoke trial at all rpms of the motor i would not be to concerned about it. use temps as just a reference to help tune when the climate changes.
-------------------- mugen mbx5-r with rb s7 mugen mbx5-t with rb c6 Posts: 5 | From: s.e. wisconsin | Registered: May 2008
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posted
I'll see if I can run a comparo with my temo gun this weekend at my lhs. At my peak temps yesterday I did my oil test and got a thin film. Much less oil than the second round tuning with slightly lower temps to boot. These temps were achieved with short burst tuning in my backyard. No high speed runs on the street have been done due to melting down my BRAND NEW OS 21VG. I'm confident, though, that high speed runs should yeild "safe" numbers. And as for smoke, it smokes. As for what comprises "good smoke", you got me. Ask ten people and you get ten answers. I was taught to look for a thin trail at full throttle and that I have. I also get big puffs when pulling away from a short stop. And as I mentioned before, if I goose the gas, I get a thin film on my hand and I was taught that oil passing through is a good thing. I'll see if I can get to some professionals this weekend to look it over.
Posts: 14 | From: VA | Registered: May 2008
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posted
toymaker 1st I'm from VA too I don't live there any more though. In you 1st post thats exactly what I have been experiencing. I was running at about 3 3/4 on HSN. Engine always seems to need to clear out on take off. It never seems to windout like it's supposed to and my temp gun says the same. I finally got it to really windout last night. After leaning LSN about 3 hours but my temps were 290*. It had a really wicked whine with a blurb mixed in. Went something like this. whiiiiiiiiiiii blurb whiiiiiiiiii blurb. The blurb was always at the same place in the cycle. Not sure if I was to lean or to rich. But it was a start I guess. I am switching from the JP/2 pipe and going with the 2045 to see if that helps. Heard those other pipes make RB's run hotter. I have the RBS3L2G I love the engine but am perplexed at getting it to perform correctly. I probally like you keep reading about other guys engines running in the 230's. Now I believe in tunning to performance but a temp gun is for monitoring potential problems and 280-290 is a potential problem. my temp gun is a duratrax which probally is not the most accurate. However when I was running a XTM and the temp gun said 300+. Sure enough that engine died not long afterwards. Thats how I ended up buying an RB so it aint your temp gun. even if your temp gun is off by 10 degrees you are still running hot like me. I posted a thread and got the same generic copy and paste answer from Rody.
"Please read through post as tempature guns are not realiable blah blah blah"
I know it's a copy and paste responce because I have been reading through the forum so much my eyes hurt looking for answers. Have seen that same reply numerous times. Not to mention I asked 4 other questions that had nothing to do with temps that got no reply. see thread "temps/shims/plugs".
Well back to our problem. I use Byrons gen2 20%/12% its good nitro. I have discovered that these engines like to be rich on LSN and leaned from HSN. I am probally going to try a different plug a RB #5 along with the 2045 pipe to see if that makes a difference in the running temp.
P.s. To whom should read this and think I don't like no Love my RB your wrong. Great engine just want to work the bugs out.
With what you explain here(and you did not tell this in your previous topic) with an engine measured at 290F and doing with what you described you are WAY TOO LEAN ON THE HSN and you are hurting the engine in this way.
If you are running the engine too rich on the LSN then often to get proper performances the engine is being used too lean on the HSN and this then will create the higher temperatures.
I am repeating myself so much in this forum that indeed it seems like a copy and paste and the information I try to explain is not found anymore..., any suggestions?
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