posted
I have a problem with my c6 its flames out after refueling, its run out of the pit and flames out when i relaese the throttel. I can run a hole tank without problems, but after refuelling it flames out, I have notice when the tank is full the engine run a little rich both in low high speed in one or two lap. I have tried new glow plugs CP-02 6/7 I have think about it and maybe it could be the length on the pressure line from the tank or could it be engine bearings?? Have anyone the tried the same problem?
Posts: 5 | From: Denmark | Registered: Aug 2007
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posted
I had the exact same problem with my c6bb a couple seasons ago. If you do a search you will probably find a couple threads with alot of good info and people discussing the problem. with mine it seemed like it was the tune. I am not 100% sure exactly because that was at the end of 2006 but I am fairly sure I was to lean on one needle and too rich on the other. I changed, tanks, fuel line, glowplugs. And nothing would work. worked on the tune and everything was good from them on not one issue since. One very important thing I learned was before you start twisting on needles, make sure it is to full operating temp. I seen a guy locally take his c6 to 350 degrees because he would fire it up and think it was to rich as it was trying to warm up, so he would lean the hell out of it and then it would scream on the box, but once it got to temp it was lean bogging and extremly hot. From my experience once I pre heat the head then fire it up, the first lap or two mine runs a touch rich also, after that though it starts cleaning out very well with no issues
Posts: 37 | From: USA | Registered: Jun 2006
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posted
I have read many posts about this without any problems of my own. However, I finally had the problem and could not figure it out. THE FIX WAS A HOT PLUG! I tried working with the LSN but it would continue to load up after re-fueling. At first I thought it was going lean due to the loss of back pressure but noticed exceess smoke as it begin to die. The hot plug has worked perfectly with a perfect, steady idle and no obvious loss of top-end power.
-------------------- Losi 8, C6, WS72, S5 Posts: 87 | From: Southern California | Registered: Oct 2005
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I have had a number 5 help this issue as well. I have also has the LSN too rich and leaning it did help the issue. If your unsure where your at it's always good to go back to factory settings and retune.
Posts: 348 | From: Colorado, usa | Registered: Apr 2005
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posted
I have had the same problem with a WS7 II but consider the following before making wholesale changes. I resolved this issue by changing the pipe and the fuel tank as this was not sealing correctly therefore after fueling the pressure is released from the tank and engine runs until fuel pipes run dry therefore causing engine to stop. I have had no problems since.
Posts: 1 | From: England | Registered: Aug 2008
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I have been experiencing similar issues with my new C6 L2G. I have been a fan of RB's for some time, but have just been consistently encountering engine cuts after refueling with this engine. The engine performs flawlessly on the track, doesn't cut when in use and temps are around 230-240 when brought in after a long run. The engine never cuts during refueling, but ALWAYS cuts on the first corner. Having come off the pit ramp, accelerated around the first corner and braked, the engine will cut. I have even been trying to give it a lot off gas and 'fly' off the pit ramp to clear the engine out, but it doesn't seem to be bogging down. I had thought the bottom end was slightly rich as it would start to load up after about 10 secs on the box, so leaned it slightly last sunday, but again in the finals experienced two cuts after each pit stop costing me a good finish. During qualifying the engine is great (even if I come in for a splash before timing starts), and I'm not trying to push for long run times as the engine is only about 1.5 gallons old. I love how the engine performs, but am just getting rather frustrated with everyone at the track telling me how they had nothing but trouble from their C6's and how I should change it. I have made a point of never running the engine hot, and although I wouldn't consider myself to be an engine god, I do feel confident at tuning an engine and getting it to run properly. As I said, I love the engine, and don't really want to switch to another brand, hence why I'm posting on this forum.
I have done the following:
Changed plugs Replaced fuel lines Changed tank
I am running an RB no6 plug, Byrons gen2 25% fuel, 192 header and 2045 pipe. The engine is in an XB808.
I guess the next step is for me to check what needle settings I'm running and if it's not close to factory settings put them back to factory settings. I haven't fiddled with the needles too much so don't think they'll be that far off. Could it be something simple like increasing the idle slightly? It idles perfectly (perhaps a little too long since I leaned the bottom slightly) and doesn't sound too low. Even when I bring the car in after a long run the idle will sound great.
I hope someone could shed some more light on this issue as I really want to give this engine a chance, and realise how fortunate we are to have this forum at our disposal. I just want to stop leaving race days feeling let down by my engine...
I have read through this topic and a number of other topics on the forum, and would greatly appreciate anyone's suggestions. If you want any more info please just ask.
Many thanks,
Oli
[ 09. September 2008, 17:57: Message edited by: Oli ]
-------------------- XB808 C6 L2G XT8 Ninja 21 KO Propo - Spektrum Pro Hitec Byron Mirage Racing Team Posts: 14 | From: UK | Registered: Oct 2006
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Do you 'blip' the throttle while being fuelled? Not full out screaming, but just the odd blip to keep it cleared?
Posts: 26 | From: Southampton, UK | Registered: Nov 2007
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Oli, I have to admit that in some cases these cuts appear without any real reason, I have taken particular attention at the last races to avoid this happening but have not really found a real reason. It also does not happen to all the engines of the same type but only to some individually. Anyway, if you have tried everything then the only thing I can suggest is that you change the combustion chamber and go back to the normal glowplug, I am almost sure that then the problem should dissapear since the engine becomes less critical but also a little less powerfull.
posted
I've just checked my needle settings and I'm about 4.75 out on the bottom and 3 out on the top. The temps were pretty average when I ran the engine on sunday (here in the uk), so these seem spot on to me. As I said, the engine was running great so I genuinely don't think it is a tuning issue. The idle also seemed ok. Not too high, not too low.
patriotboy: I have tried doing nothing while refueling, tried bliping the throttle and tried really revving it. It just doesn't seem to make any difference. The engine has never stalled during refueling, always the first time the engine drops back down to idle after accelerating out of the pits.
rody: This is a shame you say this. Perhaps some people have been unlucky, but there does seem to be a slightly alarming amount of C6 owners who are having issues during or after refueling, compared to other engines, either other RB's or other brands. I do not wish to spend money changing the button on the engine as I feel I should not have to just to get the engine to run properly. I also do not particularly like using standard glow plugs.
Please do not feel I am trying to slate RB products. They are great engines. I just feel let down by what is one of the, if not THE most expensive .21 engine, and it has spoilt nearly every race I have run in since purchasing it as it has cut after refueling and lost me too much time. I would love to get a refund on the engine but I know this is not possible.
Thanks,
Oli
-------------------- XB808 C6 L2G XT8 Ninja 21 KO Propo - Spektrum Pro Hitec Byron Mirage Racing Team Posts: 14 | From: UK | Registered: Oct 2006
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posted
Oli My C6 will do the same if my LSN is at 4.75 turns out... since I started running my LSN at 4.25 - 4.50 my issues with flaming after a fuel stop have gone away. Also richer up your HSN a little bit. Another thing you can do is get a #5 plug instead of a 6.
Posts: 348 | From: Colorado, usa | Registered: Apr 2005
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Oli, I do not agree with your comments, of course the more engines there are in the circulation the more chance there is that a problem can arrise, especially with nitro engines which perform well and so are more close to the limit and so can become also more critical. You will notice that other brands also encounter this same problem(But this is not an excuse of course) and if you go and ask The manufacturer what causes this then you probably do not have a straight forward answer(or maybe no answer at all) as I am giving here.
It is not a question of being unlucky but as I tried to explain is that this problem is very difficult to isolate and to solve since it can depend on many factors like the fuel brand, fuel type, glowplug type, glowplug number, carburetor settings, type of airfilter oil, exhaust system, or things which have happened before which sometimes seems inimportant but they have an influence. In you case all seems to be in order and this leaves me with only the carburetor settings and the airfilter oil you are using, I also do not know what your clutch is doing since it seems the engine stops where you also break. Sometimes by changing just one thing the problem dissapears.
We also noticed that during the racing and when you refuel and you are spilling, the engine has a very big chance to stop. This is why we use our fuelgun for refuelling and there is no spilling(if done correctly of course) and the engine will not stop.
Anyway, on this forum I try to solve the technical problems as much as I can but cannot do miracles either, hope you can understand this too.
More people are having problems with certain types of turbo glowplugs (me to). The isolation holding the tip seems to get weak and then it gives a leak.
Switch back to a normal glowplug (other burnroom) or try another brand plug (GRP seems to work very good)
-------------------- Speed is fiction Posts: 48 | From: Holland | Registered: Apr 2007
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I had it happen a couple of times to me with my L2G C6 (bit never on my C6T7). Leaned the low end a little and it went away...
What fuel are you using? i know some people are saying RB's don;t like Byrons, although to be honest I've not hd a problem myself.
Posts: 26 | From: Southampton, UK | Registered: Nov 2007
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I also run Byrons Pro Driver 25% and don't have any problems with it. I get great power and good temps out of the engine but I do have to run the engine leaner now especially on the LSN... when too rich on the LSN with a turbo plug I always flame out of pit lane. With a normal plug I can get away with being rich on the lsn without the engine dying. As I mentioned before with the Byrons my LSN setting is actually 3/4 of a turn leaner than the stock 5 turns out.
Posts: 348 | From: Colorado, usa | Registered: Apr 2005
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Odonnell 97T is the solution everyone here in Southern California has discovered. The motor is absolutely the best but the #6 RB plug does not always work properly. The #5 is too hot for the conditions here but the medium temp of the 97T is perfect.
-------------------- Losi 8, C6, WS72, S5 Posts: 87 | From: Southern California | Registered: Oct 2005
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